Surf Log

yankee · Feb 2, 2014

Gfootr said: ↑

I have kept a log for about 8 years running. Not too much detail - wave size, glassy or chop, what I rode, who I was with, where... enough to think back about a few fun waves.

Turned 50 in 2013 - 50 days of surfing… by the numbers...

Conditions:
25 days of semi clean - basic jersey juice.
18 days of chop - challenging, but doable.
6 days of pure glass conditions - got lucky on these.
1 day of absolute perfection - a rarity indeed.
Waves I surfed were ankle high to overhead during the 365 days - averages to 3ft+ wave size for the year.

The Rides:
Biggest wave of the year… Jupiter, a left, overhead drop, near the end of the Juno pier, connected all 3 sections right to the sand. A long, fast and fun ride.
Best wave of the year - 9/13 - sheer glass, A perfect left, walled up from pipe to jetty and I was all over that face.

The Sessions:
21 solo sessions - meaning went solo - only 3 where I was actually alone.
3 grovel sessions - really trying to squeeze out ridable waves from ripples.
1 major spanking from huge conditions 12/15/13 next day after the snow storm.
1 Black Friday surf - 20th in a row!
4 days surfing with the kids.
11 days my son tagged along and surf fished - the boy is "hooked".
1 Surf Contest - Rode a 1963 Hobie, and I didn't place last!

The Injuries:
1 surfboard to the head - it happens.
1 board to the face followed by a 1 hour bloody nose - it looked like a murder scene. Oh yeah, now I snore.

The Wildlife:
1 manatee in the surf - big, dark and moving fast, was pretty freaky - but very cool.
45+ dolphins - probably off on this number, had to be more, including a few feeding frenzies
5 sharks - all little, if you think 5 feet is little - and all in Florida, none in NJ this year.
3 sea turtles - all big, and super fast - and again, all Florida.
1 seal in Spring lake. Scared the bejesus out of me, till I saw the whiskers.

The Equipment
37 days on the 9.0 WRV - I guess that's the "go to" board (based on the avg. 3ft conditions).
9 days on the 7.2 Frierson
3 days on the 6.4 CI
1 day on the 7.6 Oceanside, my very first surfboard from 21 years ago! Hasn't been ridden in almost 12 years.
Click to expand...

Cool stuff, appreciate the post.

Slashdog · Feb 2, 2014

Radderbsurfin said: ↑

20 some years and never kept a surf log. My wife kept a sex log last year, and I def noticed an increase in our seshes as to compared from previous years ...

I'm gonna include conditions, as well as a 1-10 raiting.

that goes for the surf log too.
Click to expand...

Conditions: Chesty lumps that continue to lose their form. Turned into more of a sloping face, as opposed to the peaks of the good old days.

1-10 Rating: 6, I guess. Getting tired of the same spot but at this age, what can I do. I'm used to the local windblown slop.

Overall: Not a great session by any means, but it's been a while. Just going through the.motions by now.

beachbreak · Feb 2, 2014

for this place I need to try for a minimum of 10 days per month.
I did 157 days in a year a few years ago.
it's difficult, and I surf some real crap sometimes, but 2 or 3 days a week is the goal to keep my stoke.
it gets really flat here sometimes.
need to ride all different boards including a log if i'm gonna log the surfs I feel I need.
i log it.

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