Surfboard design has left me behind

What a great topic and tread! Keep it up fellers. I wish I could contribute something but I am a mediocre surfer at best with limited experience and abilities. I've learned a lot though. Thanks for keeping it on topic.

 

Just wait until all you mid fifty aged hit the mid 60s. Big drop off in energy for me despite no alcohol, no drugs, eat lots of veggies etc, take vitamins, etc. There is no stopping, but maybe one can slow down, the aging process. But, on a better note, I have been surfing now for 55 years. I have a few more years to go on my 7 ft boards, then longboards. But SUPs?? Fvck you......twat yachts, nothing more.....

 

That's true no doubt but I do like seeing how many old dudes there are surfing and having a great time most days I'm out. Gives me hope for 20 more years of this.

 

Thanks - good stuff. Why do you prefer your wide/thick point behind center on a board made for good waves. And how far behind center do you like it - 2 or 3"?

 

I gotta give you credit. It takes commitment. And totally agree with you on the SUP, might as well just get that jet powered board and go totally full on douche canoe.

 

There's a dude that surfs down here by me that has a WaveJet board. Claims he only uses it for the paddle out. Yeah right. Funny how he sometimes is able to mysteriously accelerate at will to make it past a section. Nice enough guy but man that shiit is ghey.

 

and ridikulously heavy too. at least it was when they gave out a demo years ago

 

I've never actually picked up his board but that's what I've read. It has a gigantic battery pack thing that goes in the bottom and of course the jet system itself. I could see if you had some physical issues to where you can't paddle or something but I think this guy just has a bunch of money and wanted to spend it. I still think it's lame.

 

I tend to disagree with the "anti-volume" comments on this thread. I'm 6'1, 205 dripping wet and surf boards from 34 liters to 37 liters.

I think surf simply does a pretty good job of discussing volume in this article http://surfsimply.com/surf-coaching/volume-weight-ratios/.

For me, looking at volume has really changed how I buy my boards. I find the sweet spot volumes for me fit pretty much in line with the chart in that article and I make decisions on rocker, rails, tail, etc depending on the conditions that the board will be used in.

 

He may be after something different... which is why he needs to talk to his shaper... but my personal preference is to get the wide point between my feet more. If this is a board for "good waves," I'd still be looking for performance. If it was for "big waves," I'd be looking more for a board that has down the line speed and projection, in which case I'd want the wide point at center, as opposed to behind it. Putting the wide point behind center also lets you put more curve in the outline from the wide point back, and if he's looking for a round tail, it all flows together nicely.

For boards for small and medium sized waves, I like my wide point at or ahead of center, depending on whether it's a groveler type shortboard (at center), or an alt shape or fish (ahead of center).

 

Dude, I think you're over analyzing things. Sh*t hasn't changed all that much, just go with what works for you. If you've been surfing as long as you say, you should know what works at this point. My suggestion, go with a 5'11' stubby round tail thruster. Decent nose rocker, but with some volume under chest. Simple, but effective.

 

Word.

You'll do your best surfing on what you feel works best for you. Confidence in your equipment is half the game, especially when you're pushing toward your own limits.

But... if you want to explore, do it. To add to that, building your own board makes exploring waaaay more affordable... and fun.

Who cares if you're out of what's trending.

 

Not sure how nimble you are or quick to your feet, but I've found riding a board that's thick, has a wide plan shape, roundish nose and soft rails, a "groveler", has significantly improved and made my surfing experience much more enjoyable. I've only been shredding for about 3 years now but on many days when I've been out in medium size conditions I've out performed most other people in the water. I catch more waves, ride them longer and have more maneuverability on my grovel board. And I'm not limited to two foot slop. I can take that this thing with me almost every where. Worth testing out to say the least. Find a shop, do some demos and experiment. Or buy some ish off Craigslist, sell it if you don't like it.

 

My frame of reference for suggesting a 5'11' is based on what I'm riding. My Fish hybrid is a beefy 6'4", most foam under chest and foiled at the nose and swallow tail. Gets me into waves early but it's all business when you get on the tail. Then my HPSB is 6ft. with considerably less volume but still good amount of foam. Any reputable shaper will give you proper volume given your size and ability. I'm 5'9" and 180lbs in comparison to you. So a 5'11" wouldn't be out of the question if you're 5'4".

 

I think it was said best earlier when they said pick the boards up and feel them in your hands, your arms...you will know. I am 57 y/o 6'1 and 175. I have only been surfing for 9 years but in the winter I will surf what keeps me taller in the water. Summer I may surf my home made 5'10 but most of the winter (I don't have to go thicker than a 4/3) I am either on my 6'4 home shaped retro fish (21.5 wide, 2.75 thick) or a 6'6 egg if I am not riding a log. Before I started shaping my own boards, a 6'10 egg was one of my favorite go to's. Normally in 5 mil I would not expect to be rippin it up, but would be more about the stoke of the ride so speed and agility can take the back seat to living the life.

 

A "magic board", one we find orfinds us every
so often, hopefully, is a true wonder to behold. It will let you surf better and more naturally.
But you are correct, some dudes can shred on a refrigerator door.