Surfer magazine

CTE from too much duck diving?

 

let my people go!!!!!!!!!

 

Gotcha, I'll check it out.

 

Getting smashed in the head by my heavy-ass longboard is a way bigger fear of mine than say, sharks.

 

I always wondered how many close calls happen under water... how many times your board just barely misses your head or another part of your body. My guess is most of us have a "second sense" of where their board is at all times, and do a little body english dance under the surface to avoid getting hit. Kind of a "flow state" thing, where you instinctively make adjustments to avoid collisions.

 

I think that would be a 6th sense no?

 

True... true.

 

I somehow seem to avoid my board most times but the fins seem to find me.

 

i have for sure hit reefs and the bottom ect.. got pretty ****ed up in costa like 4 years ago was doh+ and got smashed on some reef,,bloodily up legs.. hurricane gonazalo got smashed catching a barrel tweaked my back. damn those waves were all day that swell. only have like 5 pictures the swell was just too good. only time ive hit my head was when i got smashed then kicked off the bottom and went head first into my board,ahhh good times i saw some crazy stars,but anyways we need more of this.
[video=youtube;HNaSmMUTVkY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNaSmMUTVkY[/video]