Surfers vs. Bodyboarders

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by DawnPatrol321, Jun 14, 2018.

Page 7 of 8
  1. Jun 21, 2018 #121
    DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    17,845
    Mar 6, 2012
    Getting destroyed by a closeout is what ripped my shoulder to shreds my last trip down to PR.

    It was a raw building swell that was peaking at the time I paddled out. I picked the wrong spot, a shallow sandbar that was just chewing up the boggy boarters.

    I thought I would be brave and try my luck. I nearly drowned that day. The worst experience of my life, it’s been well documented on here.

    It was a solid 8ft with sets pushing 10-12ft and just dumping all at once on the majority of waves. I was denied 1st paddle out, got out the 2nd attempt after catching my breath, made it out no problem that time. I was out for about 45 minutes when it happened. Dropped into a drainer closeout and ate shit on the drop and got rag dolled when my shoulder got blown up, I got drove to the bottom and held there and somewhere along the way my boart hit me in the spin cycle and the fin sliced my side open pretty good.

    Getting back to shore with one arm and a leaking side wasn’t easy and scared the crap out of me. I didn’t have much of a fear of drowning till then. Since then it’s been a battle mentally and physically with me getting back out there on waves of that magnitude.

    Maybe I should have pulled back on that wave. Actually, I shouldn’t have even paddled out there. Should have went to the point / reef.

    I’ve put myself in bad positions before, I’m trying to avoid repeating my mistakes but don’t want to miss out on incredible waves either.
     
    DawnPatrol321, Jun 21, 2018
    DawnPatrol321, Jun 21, 2018
  3. Jun 21, 2018 #122
    DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    17,845
    Mar 6, 2012
    My shoulder hasn’t been the same since then either. It’s noticebaly more vulnerable to dislocation than before and fatigues easier. I have had shoulder issues since I was 16. Both have been dislocated numerous times. My right shoulder has healed back almost 100%, but the left is stuck at like 70%.
     
    DawnPatrol321, Jun 21, 2018
    DawnPatrol321, Jun 21, 2018

  5. Jun 21, 2018 #123
    Cwhite

    Cwhite Well-Known Member

    588
    May 19, 2006
    upload_2018-6-21_12-46-39.png

    Photo: Matt Clark


    Thick ones like above were more makeable than the other closeout pic, but I did get a dislocated shoulder on a small day like this. Just got slammed on the sand the wrong way.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 21, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 21, 2018
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  6. Jun 21, 2018 #124
    DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    17,845
    Mar 6, 2012
    Sick shots!
     
    DawnPatrol321, Jun 21, 2018
    DawnPatrol321, Jun 21, 2018
  7. Jun 21, 2018 #125
    Cwhite

    Cwhite Well-Known Member

    588
    May 19, 2006
    [​IMG]

    Photo: Jon Alexander
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 21, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 21, 2018
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  8. Jun 21, 2018 #126
    LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    6,024
    Aug 12, 2009
    ^^^Why, brother.... WHY?
     
    LBCrew, Jun 21, 2018
    LBCrew, Jun 21, 2018
    Cwhite likes this.
  9. Jun 21, 2018 #127
    Cwhite

    Cwhite Well-Known Member

    588
    May 19, 2006
    Why not. :D
     
    Cwhite, Jun 21, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 21, 2018
    cepriano likes this.
  10. Jun 21, 2018 #128
    cepriano

    cepriano Well-Known Member

    4,626
    Apr 20, 2012
    i think sups are cool for rivers and the bay but I think bringing it in the ocean is just dangerous.one of the key things is u have to be able to go under waves or your going to get sent to the beach.
     
    cepriano, Jun 21, 2018
    cepriano, Jun 21, 2018
  11. Jun 21, 2018 #129
    La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    2,948
    Oct 9, 2017
    Sick. Just mental.

    Funny thing is, hardly anybody on this side of the country even knows about that setup.
     
    La_Piedra, Jun 21, 2018
    La_Piedra, Jun 21, 2018
    Cwhite likes this.
  12. Jun 22, 2018 #130
    Cwhite

    Cwhite Well-Known Member

    588
    May 19, 2006
    [​IMG]

    Photo: Jason Skinkle
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    sisurfdogg likes this.
  13. Jun 22, 2018 #131
    Cwhite

    Cwhite Well-Known Member

    588
    May 19, 2006
    [​IMG]
     
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    nopantsLance likes this.
  14. Jun 22, 2018 #132
    Cwhite

    Cwhite Well-Known Member

    588
    May 19, 2006
    [​IMG]
     
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    nopantsLance likes this.
  15. Jun 22, 2018 #133
    Cwhite

    Cwhite Well-Known Member

    588
    May 19, 2006
    [​IMG]

    Photo: Jon Alexander
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
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  16. Jun 22, 2018 #134
    Cwhite

    Cwhite Well-Known Member

    588
    May 19, 2006
    [​IMG]

    Photo: Jon Alexander
     
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    nopantsLance likes this.
  17. Jun 22, 2018 #135
    La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    2,948
    Oct 9, 2017
    Pulled up a decent vid on this place last night, surfers were getting shacked but had to step off the watercraft to get into it. Place was stacked with boogs.
     
    La_Piedra, Jun 22, 2018
    La_Piedra, Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite likes this.
  18. Jun 22, 2018 #136
    Cwhite

    Cwhite Well-Known Member

    588
    May 19, 2006
    Starting @ 1:35 & to the end of the video is all the same spot & 95% step offs for the brown barrels.
     
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    Cwhite, Jun 22, 2018
    La_Piedra and kookboy like this.
  19. Jun 22, 2018 #137
    cepriano

    cepriano Well-Known Member

    4,626
    Apr 20, 2012
    i bodysurf shorebreak like that cause i dont want to snap a board.u eat shit every time,but its fun.only in summer and spring tho im not bodysurfing in the winter unless i lose my board out at sea.

    good training imo.u need to learn to take a beating just so u dont pull back,just go for it.sometimes i have to take my own advice because i hold back sometimes.
     
    cepriano, Jun 22, 2018
    cepriano, Jun 22, 2018
    DawnPatrol321 likes this.
  20. Jun 22, 2018 #138
    cepriano

    cepriano Well-Known Member

    4,626
    Apr 20, 2012
    summer and fall*
     
    cepriano, Jun 22, 2018
    cepriano, Jun 22, 2018
  21. Jun 22, 2018 #139
    cepriano

    cepriano Well-Known Member

    4,626
    Apr 20, 2012
    i havnt been on surfline in a while,i kind of been losing the stoke with summer here,happens every year.idk why but just seeing those closeouts gives me the itch to get the fuk out there but nothings happening.
     
    cepriano, Jun 22, 2018
    cepriano, Jun 22, 2018
    nopantsLance likes this.
  22. Jun 22, 2018 #140
    JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    3,021
    Feb 6, 2012
    B/c:cool:
     
    JayD, Jun 22, 2018
    JayD, Jun 22, 2018
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