Surfing the eclipse

don't peek

 

[video=youtube;mdyzmAwnzbg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdyzmAwnzbg[/video]

 

this morning was still offering some favorable thi to waist hi peelers. going on hi tide, seemed worthy of a DP sess. Lots of ppl on the beach in the crack of dawn, Eclipsters. Had only a couple of us by the pier before another 30 when all the off-work ppls showed and i scooted further away. had a handful of rides, pretty good sunrise feel. Lotta stir in the water this week, make things moving back on the beach that much easier

 

Just got out a little while ago. It was waist high at best, weak and semi choppy. Afterward I went to a beach bar and ordered chilled vodka citron, poured a shot of kahlua in it, and drank it. An Eclipse drink. The dumbest idea I've had in a while. So sweet I almost puked. I don't think I'll tell anyone IRL.