Time stops on the drop, surreal being part of the process down the line, time and surroundings come back in focus coming over the lip and paddling back for the promise the next wave brings.
Last couple of days have been fun... Work is so much better when you score in the AM... Unless it's firing. Then the day drags waiting to get back out. Especially in the fall. When we get solid surf with offshores all day. Warm water. Warm air.
I'm seriously jonesing for some warmer (relative to my region) water. I can't remember the last time we have been pushing into May with sub-65 degree water--dis shizzz is insane! Surfed in a comp this past weekend in CB... should have blown the comp and gone up to WB since the swell was way too South for CB. The comp was fun anyway, first one I have done in something like 17 years, but definitely not the best surf (thigh-high at best chop) for showcasing the surfing ability of a 34 year old. Maybe next time? Didn't see dlroun down there in his orange wetsuit and white helmet catching all the waves and/or hanging on the beach with a heady brew like he said he might be doing... but the weather was complete crap and I definitely wouldn't have been hanging on the beach if I didn't have to, so I can't blame him. Been too busy with work this week to make it out, sucks 'cause it's looked fairly fun at times.
New York surfers, would it be alright to not where a hood this weekend, its right at that weird transition temperature?
I haven't worn a hood for the last week and was fine... I actually saw a kid in a 3/2 with no boots or gloves, but he looked like he was going to die! Wore a 4/3, 5 mil boots , 3 mil gloves and was fine
It's all about having the balls to drop in on waves bigger than houses showing off for the Hindus in bikinis.
I miss it so. hurry up global warming. Ive been doing my part by burning tires in the back yard. but noooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
Was that the 17th St comp? I was down in CB a couple weeks ago and watched for a little in the morning but, like you said, not much to watch when it's only knee high...waves were actually kinda fun later that afternoon as the wind backed off though. Funny, though, the 58 degree water was amazing for me compared to up here in NJ. It was so nice to paddle out without a hood or gloves. Next time I'm down there you will have to come shred with me and Dlrouen on the North End.
EVERYONE HATES YOU,njkookmachine,so maybe we'll decide it's not funny anymore and ignore all your posts.trying to ruin every thread like this surfing thread on swellinfo could be the end of your stupid existence
Don't let the NJshreddnmeme get you down man, like my shed--put the tools you don't need up and forget about them... or something like that... just make sure nothing is in the way of the boards and my god forsaken wetsuit and it's all good. Anyway, catch it good lately?
Fun down here in Northeast FL for the past two days. Nothing big, but clean/glassy all day, skinnable water temps with lots of sunshine. Waves all next week too, woohoo
I am gonna rock the 5/4/3 all through the summer...I hate water when its not at least 95 degrees. I also hang out with NJShredmachine and we play with eachother's balls.
Something that dawned on me lately about surfing. People who seem like they are just out there getting their a$$ kicked, are usually having just as much fun as those who are killing it. I am not talking about people who get wet for 15 minutes so they can tell everyone they surfed today, but those, of all ages, paying their dues and getting stoked over any bit of improvement. Side note, I think I fall right in the middle of the ones paying their dues and the ones killing it, always room for improvement though.
