For the readers out there who'd like some historical perspective: "How Surfing Spread from Hawaii and California to the Rest of the World, with Some Unexpected Results" http://www.amazon.com/Sweetness-Blo...books&qid=1280585854&sr=8-1#reader_1605294276
Great book, just finished reading it. The author tells the story of how surfing spread to more than a half-dozen countries (or regions) around the world, or arose indigenously in one form or another. While focusing on the sport of waveriding in these areas the author also manages to weave in other facets of the history of the sport in addition to other cultural phenomena. http://www.worldcat.org/title/sweet...d-with-some-unexpected-results/oclc/460059174
thanks for the recommendation. I'm currently reading "all for a few perfect waves" about the legendary Miki Dora. Anybody interested in the history of longboarding and the king of Malibu it's a fun read.
Dora factor If it's about Dora, it should be, "all for a few <<empty>> perfect waves." That's why he went south.
