swell predictions, 12/9 and 12/10

so in other words leave work early if possible?!

It's so tough to sit at work doing nothing, knowing that it's going off right now. UGHHHHHHHHH!

Did you wear a hood or was anyone out there without one still it's been two weeks since I've been in as I missed last weeks because I was sick...

 

2 other guys tried paddling out, but got denied. They were wearing hoods.

I would Def leave work early, maybe quit.

 

Are you up there? or talking outta your ass because you're stuck at work like me?

 

LOL! ^

When the guys got denied did they pack it in or did they try a couple more times?

 

I'm pretty sure they packed it in after one try. I didn't get out till my 2nd try and it took about 20 min. And mikey, I strategically made a dentist apt today to get off work

 

Ahhhh... I see what you did there....

 

big washing machine with the occasional big face, the inside was retarded sloppy. i saw some kid paddle out without a hood and get caught in the inside immediately... he came in real fast

 

it was not very good today. pretty sloppy even though the wind was offshore. you could find a tube if you dodged the closeouts.

 

defintiely gonna be flat tomorrow. sleep in

 

wow, 1 try? what posers

 

I made 2 attempts but it was pretty much worthless to keep trying. She just didn't want to cooperate with me, so I will have to slap that bietch in the morning.

 

Got denied my first time, second time took a good 15 minuntes and about 40 duckdives. Got out there and it was real gnarly. Big and dumping at my spot. Drifted around the rocks and paddled into my first right hander of the sesh, wraparound cutback, fins not holding, got knocked off and held under, came up to find only the back half of my board. BOOOOO! And it was a 1 year old firewire... that was one expensive wave... worst feeling ever but I'm over it, surfing the web now for my next stick...

 

How did your firewire break in half? I thought those boards were nearly indestructable... I've never heard of one snapping clean in half-- fin boxes, rail dings, etc are understandable, but snapped in half?? damn what were you out at the Eddie in Hawaii or somethin?

 

HAHA! Actually I thought they were indestructable also, but not the case. After some quick research I've learned that many others have snapped theirs as well.

True, the balsa rails give more support than a center stringer but after inspecting the things construction I was sad to see that the foam core is made up of tiny styrofoam beads (very similar to ones that are pressed to make up a styrofoam cooler. Outside those there was a rigid layer of yellowish foam but it was thin like 1/8th inch. and then the glass which wasn't anything to write home about.

My buddies and I were thinking maybe I hit something under water since there was also a deep gouge right above the break but I went back to the spot and it seems I wasn't really near the pilings or the Jetty. Anyway, not buying one of those again. My PU's lasted me longer than that thing... It was a nice board don't get me wrong, super fast and light but after seeing the guts I would feel just as comfortable on a PU. Not worth the $600+ price tag IMO. But aren't most boards going for that these days?

Eddie in Hawaii, no. But yesterday's swell was one of the gnarliest I've seen here in a while. Much thicker than Bill.

 

It was real gnarly yesterday, not suprised you broke it. My friend who surfed monmouth last thursday when it was good (I couldnt get out cuz work) said it was bigger yesterday but not as clean... o well, cant dwell on a past swell. I got 2 good ones that will hold me over for a few days

If your looking for boards check out:
spellbinders (they listed a bunch for $325 brand new)
21-13.com (uncle mike custom shapes $450 around after shipping)
Realwatersports.com had a really good sale also (first board $399, 2nd $299, 3rd $199)

 

Sorry to hear about your board man, stories like these really scare me. I have been saving up since september for a coil and it's coming in on christmas, Idk what I'd do if I halved it in one of the first few sessions

 

i surfed yesterday from 3-dark. most paddling i've done in a LONG TIME. head high to 2ft over on set, REALLY gnarly and drifty, heavy waves, pretty crazy. 5-10 ON SHORE - didn't expect that one. saw a lot of guys unable to make it out, and saw a few guys get some insane barrels. a lot of death drops. not my idea of fun.