Couple years back, I don't remember the storm but my buddy and I had been waiting for the swell to show for days. It finally started to fill in nice and clean waist to chest so we head out to get some. After about 45 minutes of trading waves the wind turns onshore a bit and the swell really starts rising. We caught a few more but it was like after every wave you had to paddle out further and further. My friend, being the smarter of us, says hes going in. I give him the old "one more good one" speech and paddle back out. By now its pretty much out of control couple of feet overhead and breaking everywhere. I catch one and as Im kicking out I see a monster breaking right in front of me. I did my best to get as deep as I could but my feeble attempt was rejected and as Im getting destroyed I feel that horrible sense of freedom one feels as their leash snaps. My only thought was to do my best to stay inside the jetty and eventually the current would push me to it. Obviously I made it. I was humbled as a surfer that day but I gained a ton of confidence in my ability to maintain my composure and survive a bad situation.