My wife just called to tell me that she is at Pier Village with the kids, and that the waves look awesome. There are a lot of surfers out. That's great honey, I am just gonna stay here at work in front of my computer, but thanks for the update. Do you guys think this swell will hold through tomorrow? May be developing a little 24 hour bug, and have to call out sick tomorrow.
looks like it's going to, but w/ more wind on it tomorrow. surfed this AM & there was plenty of swell & no wind (bit o' fog, though...creepy.) just looked at it again after running some errands & it doesn't appear to have lost any size, but there is already a bunch more wind than there was this morning/early afternoon...offshore, but still much more wind.
i almost had a heart attack from beings overly stoked as i climbed over a dune...in a secret/not so secret location in snc....and saw a dude get an almost stand up 3 second barrel. lost it, surfed until i couldn't move. best surf all fall.
That place goes off with the right swell angle, that's sick you caught it good. I've seen some pics of it looking epic...
It was 300 mph death barrel in Frisco/hatteras village for most of the day today (had a couple ok ones). I wish I had stayed home or gone up north a little ways.
i was workin on a roof today in hatteras village. they were definitly throwin top to bottom and spitting, but i didnt seen anyone make a wave\ pull outta one of those freighters . i was still frothing at the mouth watchin all thoose thick lipped lefts go off. damn job and sh*t
Longest day of my life I think.. Last night slept at a house I'm working at on the beach, brought a girl with me there (I kno I'm a degenerate). Woke us up at 7:00 am, rain, fog, bull**** swell.. WTFFFF not again. Dropped her off, got changed, brought all my **** with me just incase, went back to the beach house and mixed cement and built a deck in the backyard all while running to the front of the house and watching it start to get pretty decent, but kinda low and the wrong wind. Lunch hit, suited up. Take my board out of my board bag and realize theres 2 sweet dings on my nose and tail (happens every time, **** pickup trucks and driving fast thinking nothing gona happen). So I take VICOR (the sticky stuff you put on windows before shingling for construction) and VICOR the **** out of my dings.. Thats gona be stuck there forever now, **** it. Surfed right outside the house, 2nd wave, longest barrel of my life, literally felt like 8 seconds but was probably only 3. Got more sick ones, see my co-worker outside the house watching me..**** gota go back to work... So pissed bc it was just starting to get reallly good and glassy. Walk to the house, change, go back to sheating the house, try my hardest to get my work done bc at this point it's 3:00 and the wind is West and its incoming tide and the waves were ****ing firingggg. Get done, tell my co-worker I'm ****ing going out, not much time. Suit up...takes forever to get my gloves on since I put them inside-out after I got out to dry. It's absolutely firing at this point. I go out, once I get out..no sets come. I catch one and take it on the head. Go back out. Sitting there forawhile and I'm getting pissed. I look out in the ocean, I see some HUGE Fish or something that looked like a shark, I doubt it but I was ****ing not taking chances. I think to myself, wtf was that.. that was massive and jumped like a thrasher or mako or something. Then this giant school of fish start swimming straight at me, I ****ing panic figuring this shark or whatever the **** is chasing them into me. I bolt, paddle so fast and get out. I was freaked bc I was the only one in that spot. So I walked down the beach, paddled with some boys, took 3 or 4 more on the head and by that time it was pitch black. TL;DR. Can't wait for tomorrow morning tho. I got out at 5:30, wind was howling but it was the biggest all day.. Definally gona be swell tomorrow morning
Damn, wish i had have stayed longer, i left Monday...I paddled out Sunday morning at Frisco, drifted damn near a mile and couldn't get into one, then saw a couple guys roll up on jetskis and kids jumping off the back and getting some good rides...
VB on Wednesday was realy fun, I got the best barrel I have had in quite awhile. Shoulder high sets were so clean and plenty of juice, just drop in small bottom/check turn stomp the tail then water wonderland cylinder, then out. Great day, shape of the waves were perfect averaging chest high. It was not the biggest day in recent months but I would have to say the way the sand has moved around in this one spot has created some great shape waves on a SE swell. Thursday still had something left but it was a bit smaller and not as celan .
Didn't go to work, surfed a couple of hours this morning. I am sure not as epic as yesterday, but still worth it. 3/2 with boots and gloves for 2 hours was fine, but froze my a$$ off in the parking lot changing. Love fall surf in NJ.
