The best part of surfing

Yes, or the last two seconds (knowing that you just did some shredding)

 

right in the middle of a crisp off the lip for me

 

riding a beautiful wave and freedom out in the water are the two feelings that i love best

 

The milfs who check you out and their failed attempt to not make it look obvious.

And the "good" tired feeling after a long session is ok too

 

right when you pop up on a big set, and you look down the line to see an untouched wall of water you have to yourself to carve up

 

Oh that lovely feeling....

 

I love that too. i remember a specific time from the moment you are referring. Hurricane Bill, sunday morning, 1st light. I paddle out and was so overly stoked i paddled for the 1st wave i saw and tried to stand up under the lip and ate it hard. I paddled back out and didn't catch another wave for 20minutes. Fuming and now 50 more people out in the water, i see a big set coming and the 1st 2 waves wash out the beach, and the 3rd one broke out way out side, and i was the farthest outside, and caught the whitewater. Once i stood up, i dropped down, i did a bigger than typical bottom turn than i'm used to in new jersey, and as i begin to set my line, the wave builds and the white water ceases, and i see a 2ft overhead crisp wall of water, and i couldn't help but smile. I think i did 3 top turns in a row, which is really quite rare in this neck of the woods, and got barreled in the inside. Man that wave was one to remember. Sorry, but i felt compelled to tell you that.

But one of my favorite feelings in surfing either that moment when you know your going to get shacked on a wave as you see a barreling section come, or the paddle back out after you catch a good one. Thats what keeps me coming back everyday.

 

i prefer the last two, the time after you've dismounted the wave but sent yourself flying though the air because you couldn't do a finishing maneuver

 

Best feeling...catching the last wave in a fat daddy set on your favorite board and ripping it to shreds it in front of the locs who are paddling back out and getting the head nod. Worst feeling... catching the last wave in a fat daddy set on your favorite board and eating it in front of the locs who are paddling back out and getting the head shake.

 

Actually, for me would be a morning session, walking up over the dune at first light and seeing a fun 3 to 4 glass. Or, when I was out in San Diego, I caught a wave on one of the larger sets and got some hoots from the locals. Good feeling knowing you're respected in another line up

 

Being right behind a girl surfer while she is duck diving (with bikini of course)....superb

 

'cane Bill

I remember so vividly, the first morning of Hurricane Bill, not the glassy one, but the bigger messy one...I was out at 26th St with some friends and watched this kid on a big ole duct-taped canoe get hopelessly shacked. I don't know if it was his first barrel ride or what, but he was STOKED! We watched him riding down the line and just found himself in the perfect spot and got a ~3 second tube ride, then came out screaming. Like, uncontrollable joy. It was so amazing to see him enjoy the experience. Watching the whole thing from a distance gave me that same feeling that I had while first learning. If you've ever watched "Creepy Fingers" there's a section toward the end where Gavin Beschen talks about watching his kids grow up and how it brings him so much peace. No kids yet for me, but I imagine the feeling I had that day is similar.

 

1. Accelerating out of a bottom turn and getting your first glimpse of the lip ahead. Oh yeah, thats the feeling.

2. Finding a doggy door out of a barrel at the last minute is a pretty amazing feeling also.

3. Having a total stranger hoot and holler as you pick off a set wave.

4. Filling your suit with a warm steamy piss right before the paddle...

God I love surfing

 

I heard this is bad for your suit. Ammonia breaks down the neoprene or something and allows water in sooner/easier. Anyone know if this is true? As, I too, have often enjoyed this passtime.

Worst thing: paddling into a perfect shoulder, looking down the line, flub the takeoff and as you are falling you just see the unridden line thinking about what you WERE going to do on it....

 

1. First good ride of the session for that day.

2. Walking out to the beach when the sun's not even quite up and attempting to be the first one in the water, but smiling cuz there's always some wiley veteran who beat you to the punch.

3. and this one is personal: one time i was coming down the line and heard what sounded like a flushing toilet, and turned behind me to see a pretty little barrel catching up with me that was a first

 

Best part of surfing? It ain't work!

I guess for me it's pulling in frontside... timing the bottom turn to hook it up under the lip and set the rail, stalling ever so slightly with the back foot, dragging my hand across the face, cheek inches from the wall, sighting down the line at the horizon like putting a bead on a flushing bird... tube spining around and over... ripples and bits of foam twisting like the rifling inside... well... a barrel!

 

- 3 session or more days
- riding a 45 y/o longboard leashless on a shoulder+ day
- dragging my hand across the face of the wave
- giving a wave to someone who is cool
- taking waves from a douche
-when hot chicks change under a towel and they know your scoping them but they don't care

 

Those Gut wrenching Drops and the occasional long ass ride, that's twice or 3 times longer than the normal rides your usually accustomed too, and you say to yourself
" Wholly SHlT i'm still going "

 

something like this...

http://www.bbphotography.net/Sports/Surfing/3-13-11-Surfing/16195202_QTUDP#1216465861_NSdW7-X3-LB

http://www.bbphotography.net/Sports/Surfing/3-13-11-Surfing/16195202_QTUDP#1216422847_BHgME-X2-LB

http://www.bbphotography.net/Sports/Surfing/3-13-11-Surfing/16195202_QTUDP#1216439832_3UKoX-X2-LB