The Best Session Of Your Life

One time that sticks in my memory was at least 10 yrs or more ago in Hawaii. It wasn't huge- actually rather small- waist to chest. Some spot that they called rainbows - but it was really just a hidden reef is some older guys back yard. Was with a good friend at the time- and we just ran into this old guy and he invited us to paddle out. I vividly just remember the wave peeling perfectly forever. No one else out. Except some big (heavy) Hawaii dude on a longboard- he was out there with his fishing pole- he was sitting way out side fishing... Until the better outside sets came- then he would put the fishing rod in his mouth- spin around - and drop right into the barrel lol

I have surfed better and bigger waves at world class breaks- but This was just one of those moments- with a close buddy- perfect waves and long rides... Kind of sad now thinking about- I have not seen my old friend in years... Hope he is doing well....

 

Oh yes- later found out that the locals don't surf the spot since it's 'sharky' ... What ever that means...

 

Nice post bro. You had me in the barrell, looking for daylight.

 

Sick. This just increases my desire to move to the islands. I want warm water, nonstop surf, offshores and rainbows all year round!

 

Tell us something we don't know already, J/K

 

My best session was the one where I banged Big Money T's mom.

 

Hawaii seems like one of those places u retire to,and u never get to actually surf it,but ur kids grow up there and turn out to be like jjf and Jamie o.it would be awesome tho,but its very expensive even the west side which u don't want to go lol.I always watch the buying Hawaii show on the travel channel,a 15ft long camper lookin cabin starts off at 1.3million.and the houses don't have ceilings above the rooms like regular houses,something about the windflow.best bet would be to move to one of the other islands onto the newly renovated lavarock zones

 

Been to the islands a bit. Used to hostel, now have friends there who I stay with these days. RE isn't that expensive once you get inland a bit, but there's no good jobs/openings and COL is high with everything having to be shipped in.

With the right job, I'd move there in a heartbeat, but there's other warm-water destinations that are just as good or better with less crowds and less isolation for island fever.