The least common denominator

That's the truth... I swam Pools with mask and fins on a flat day one time. Chit is scary. Little Malibu is even shallower, with the added benefit of fire coral almost everywhere.

 

Had to do it to make it in from a south shore break in Oahu years ago. Overstaying the break & not reading the tide correctly like a dipshiiite cost me scrapes on my board & feet cut to pieces on that coral. Life is a great teacher.

 

man...done that leash thing after airing down and driving down the beach a couple miles...it was big and it sucked without the leash...should of just went back home to get it. Sucks surfing conservatively.

forgot some other things...done it surf fishing too...forgot may dam weights and that's after driving on the sand down the va/md line, its a long way...that really sucked! Fortunately saw some of my buds fishing that I passed and got some weights.

moral of the story...I always have an extra leash in the truck now.

 

It's not the reading. You are surfing DOH or bigger now, right. I'm not one to surf very big conditions but it's hard to believe some of your stories especially since you just started surfing, that's all. Maybe it's all true and I apologize. I just have trouble believing it.

 

Once I was so stoked I paddled out with the leash still wrapped around the tail, and when I took off on an OH set wave it was like slamming on the breaks! I can only picture the look on your face once you decided damn!time to rethink this whole thing.

#FLYABANNERFORSTOKE

 

I love how he has these stories but never has posted one pic of a session in his life... What surfer doesn't take pictures of a perfect wave. I mean I understand if you're pressed for time but who has never taken a picture of waves once in there life anyone??? Moral of the story wear booties make sure you are prepared before you paddle out helps get past those beginning steps every surfer learns when they start.

 

That's to funny I can't even imagine how that board rose on that wave.

 

I'm always taking pics of empties, especially on above average days

 

See this is proof of a great session A story written of 500 words should at least have a picture or 2

 

I never take pictures of surfing. but I rarely take pictures of anything. I hope folks can see the truth in my written words. Because I surf. A lot. I like talking about it and I think because I surf alot I can see the truths in others words as well.

 

The best pictures are in my mind, I never take or see pics that would ever make me see / feel what surfing actually feels like when on a wave, it's a totally different perspective, I like pics don't get me wrong, but it's what's in your minds eye that really counts. Take those images with you when you're gone, hopefully.

 

Little Malibu is a knife fight LB of crews...I surfed there last years trip for a couple hours

I was scooping extra hard and my fins and shins bore or wore the evidence

Man I should have taken SS advices on angled take offs

I also snorkeled Pools, Tres and Indicators on the one day it was flat

Gnarly contours

 

I guess there's two kinds of surf pics... art, and documentation. The best surf pics are both.

 

i have bad memory and have had so many sessions that its hard to remember them all but after i take a few pictures i can always recall them which is nice.

 

Pools...we used to surf there when all else was flat, on longboards, the waves were small and paddling out was bumping our fins the whole way out, until we began paddling out in reverse with fin (then called a skeg) up in the air. I was 13 - 14 then....1964-65, way before anybody even knew the place existed. Boogieboards did not really exist down there then; maybe in California but not in PR.

 

o barry paipos are more ancient than you

 

pictures can document a lie as well as written documentation even better. I'll give you an example.

A contractor I work with was having issues with quality of installs. we would go look at the job and the job was sh!t. He would fight it and say he had has his crews take pictures of the jobs and he never sees the stuff we are showing him. He never went and did final inspections himself because pictures don't lie. His crews weren't taking pictures of the bad parts of the job that they just completed. Why would they?

 

Wanna bet??? lol
Having said that--my point was if you try to flipper you way out at Pools, there is high chance of getting pin-cushioned by urchins.