The scariest / most frightening surf spot you EVER surfed ???

An inlet on an island in Northern Florida... brown, murky water and tons of nasty little sharks... over a mile walk up the beach from where I parked. All I could think about was having my hand or foot bit, and having to walk all the way back to the car bleeding like a stuck pig.

 

Playa Rosda, Nicaragua.. **** was a death trap on that big day.

 

Carmenal Cost Rica- hadn't seen a person in over an hour. Rivermouth to the north making for a yoohoo quality of the water. Shifty currents. The wave eas fantastic but that didn't help as it was just me & my buddy so we both might as well have been alone due to the long rides and paddle out. As spooky as a sunny tropical spot can be.

that or Pacifica near San Fran- nastiest beach I've ever seen. Cold, gloomy and I couldn't help but think of sharks the whole time.

 

yeah found myself a rock / reef break in the cliffs between Hermosa and Jaco on a big day when the beaches were closing out. I get out there to what I think is the take off zone just to take a set on the head in about 2' of water. I brush that one off and go out further... and the current takes me. I see Jaco rapidly approaching and end up belly surfing in through the maxed out black sand closeouts and wash up almost 2 miles from where I paddled out. F*ck everything about that day.

 

Gilgo Beach Long Island New York, I've read about a lot of shark activity on long island and its a super far paddle out with crazy current. But the perfect lefts were worth it...it didn't get really creepy until I paddled in and walk back to my car..I'm stopped by a police officer who begins asking me all these questions if i have seen any suspicious activity or persons on the beach. I say no, sorry and he lets me continue on my way as helicopters are buzzing over head and they have the entire road shut down for a police search. Come to find out later that someone has been dumping dead hookers out there. they found like 15 corpses.

 

Praia De Norte, Portugal.

 

Praia Mole (Gravata) Florianopolis, Brazil. Impossible paddle out and if you don't catch a set wave you will be smashed into rocks

 

Montauk, this one spot below the cliffs just west of the lighthouse, late late fall, BIG E OH to DOH Swell, late fall, grey sky, the only place to enter or leave the water was a sand pile about 40 ft across, everything else was
giant slimy boulders, so we paddled out and the current swept you out pretty far, impossible to paddle back
to the sand area, the fear, not unwarranted because I and the 2 people I was with had never surfed there before, was of eventually getting swept out into the most open ocean most east coast surfers have ever been in off the point - beyond where you could catch a wave back in - and of course if you know Montauk at all you know there are some big ass sharks there - and hope the Coast Guard decides to rescue you (they did about a half dozen that day)

 

Oh yeah MTK can get real creepy/sketchy.

 

The creepiest situation I have ever experienced happened right near home, Assateague Island to be exact. I arrived at the beach first thing in the morning to perfect conditions. A friend was right behind and we kept commenting that this was too good to be true, I mean perfect conditions, solid surf and no one out. Turns out we were right to be concerned. We suited up paddled out and caught a few good waves but the feeling was always there, like the shoe was gonna drop and it was hard to relax. Then we saw it, it was huge like 10 feet long with a giant fin. It was circling just outside of us right as a set approached. We turned hoping to catch the wave and get away but it seemed to catch the wave and was coming right at us. We felt a mixture of fear and annoyance all at once. Not only were we afraid for our life but it ruined a perfect set. Just as it got close it lost momentum and then just sat there. Finally it struggled to it's feet, moaned something about getting old, grabbed its paddle and made it's way back to the outside. I got a good look at it as it paddled away. I would put it at around 55 years old with a greyish paler to the skin and a clueless look to it's face. I will never forget that morning.

 

Moss Landing in Northern California. Dark foggy Big waves. Sharky feeling. couldnt even enjoy myself. O and week later someone was bit in half by 18 foot great white....

 

I almost drowned surfing Jaco, I was very tired after surfing 4 straight days, tried to fit in one more session before departure. Waves were in the solid 6ft range, I got dragged down the beach underwater after taking on one the head, and then I took another on the head which started to freak me out... I was done.

My scariest though was surfing Little Hawaii in Costa Rica with 10-12ft ripping right-handers, only five of us out, storm squalls all over with overcast skies, the shore break waves were no less than 8 feet with a nasty drift. I caught a few waves, but i was pooping my pants the whole time.

 

hahahahahaha

 

North Shore Oahu

Overcast day, brown water advisory, on Oahu's Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Park during a 4-6 ft hawaiian day. Only one guy was in the water before I went out. On my paddle out to the break that guy went in and I had a freaky feeling about being out there on my own because you couldnt see much in the water due to the brown water advisory and thats when the tiger sharks come in close. Saw lots of turtles and a few seals. Constantly thought I was going to be chomped for sure and at least the life guards couldnt lose me because I was the only one in the water! Got a few waves but I have had a few days like that where you cant see in the water and dont know what is under you on top of surfing a heavy break.

 

I thought you would like that, lol

 

Puerto Escondido in mexico. **** myself when i kicked out of a wave and saw 4 sets feathering waaaaaay out there, tried to go thru the lip and got sucked over haha, you can see it in the vid. the day was a little overhead and this wave was f*ucken huge, im not great at wave sizing but id say it was around 13-14+ feet. and 3 more coming right after it. i have a 3 sec clip of me going thru the 1st set wave and getting sucked over. anyone know how to post a video on the forum?

 

Those are some heavy spots - Moss Landing, Puerto, Portugal...I was most nervous at an Outer Reef North of V Land on Oahu. 5ft HI scale and one other guy out in shifty but perfect lines. Or an outer reef in between Ali'i and Day Star in Waialua. Most of the time so busy jockying for position not to have my ass handed to me that it's just not enjoyable but you gotta go anyway. Or Viginia Beach in July...Outer Reefs are mystical surfing experiences but scary, nonetheless and I look forward to doing it again every day I'm on the east coast.

 

Just Q&A it in the forum not that time consuming- I'd like to see the vid

 

im gonna search i wanna post it