At this point in the weekend I feel like Bernie Lomax. Shades are on and I'm just posted up on the couch like a corpse. Weekend has been epic and there's still 1.5 days left. Buddy is in town and having the time of his life. We steamed up 3.5lb lobstahs yesterday like a bunch of gluttons. Wahines are flowing like an assembly line. Didn't know what tread to post this in but felt I should share. God Bless America.
No bro. Living the dream implies that it's not reality. It's all very real. Think of it more as setting the standard.
Good on ya bro! Then some kid posts on another thread can he still surf after a 3 month layoff. Hahahaha
Dammit! Marie wiped out my home break! There's no sand left, and it was breaking just a few yards out from the seawall today. It should have been a solid session, but instead I had to go for a run. Looks like it won't be rideable except at low tide on a big swell until the sand comes back. Good thing the tide is swinging wide and a big SW is forecast for Fri-Sun, otherwise I might do something crazy, like surfing Snake Lake or *e**e*.
Badly bruised my quadriceps tendon and bone bruised the Patella playing baseball. Limping around like a gimp. Have about 10 degrees range of motion in my left knee joint. Cant climb stairs, cant get in a car, and have to poop with one leg strait. I'm frustrated.
ZaSeuss? its tough to take a deuce when your knee isn't loose and its hard to get in a car when your joint wont bend far, and to be totally fair, your knee fears the stairs. I meant what I said, and I said what I meant But oh does my knee hurt, one hundred percent.
Stoke = The waves in Southern NC Sat and Sunday. Frustration = muscle atrophy and lousy flexibility from being laid up w\ sickness and surgery and eating it over and over. Beats watching TV.
Well done Gaff. There were several out yesterday at CB, but two really stood out. The girl was on the SUP backwards (fins first) and couldn't figure out why she kept turning sideways. Her man was showing her how to do everything and doing it all wrong too. We all lined up to watch them come in finally. They had a flat spell and could have paddled in, instead they sat waiting for a wave to carry them. Sitting still not even trying to paddle into it. Mother nature finally obliged and laid a beating on them. We applauded. I was off by my lonesome at one point and had one paddle over. It's f'ing sand bar beach break everywhere, lots of little peaks, none really better than the rest. He wanted to chat about life, the universe, and everything. Weird, he had the Santa belly and a white t-shirt as well (is that a thing or something?). I just grunted, turned and caught the next one then paddled back out. He finally got the message and moved along.
Stoke was hearing that a bunch of my surfing buddies caught it really good yesterday; I'm amped for them. Frustration was being stuck at home all day watching the baby and hearing about said friends' waves because my wife had to help her dad move from a joint rehab facility back into his house and run errands all day. By the time she got home and I could have gone, wind had chopped it all to hell
Super stoked! The sand is finally freaking back at my home break! No more bleary-eyed frozen-azz DP's at kook-choked mushburger spots! Blue-water, sunny, warm sick throwing pits for me from now on! Solid SW forecast for next Mon-Tues, and a good excuse to blow off a few hours of work to go hit it! Gonna be sweet! I saw a car parked around the point, so looks like the sand at *oo**r*o*** might be back too for winter NW'ers. Actually it's been a pretty darn good fall following a darn good summer.
Stoked! Caught 2 hours of hurricane Vince magic at my home break in a rare convergence of luck. Sand's still mostly gone, so it needs a super-lo tide, SW swell, and offshores, of course. Got all that with a cherry on top! Yesterday: Small, clean, waist-chest NW leftovers breaking really shallow over the sandbar. Got dropped hard on the bar and banged up my shoulder. Today: Looked only a tad bigger in the early afternoon, but with light onshores. Paddled out anyway. Wind went calm, total glass-off, then the action started. HH+ super-steep angled SSE bangers started sweeping in from the hurricane, throwing sick sucking pits over the inside sandbar, and bending into ridiculously long left-handers scalloping down the beach. My last wave was my wave of the day. Beautiful peak humped up way outside, I dropped in, stalled into a thick blue-water tube. Pushed the nose down, accelerated out, squeezed around the next section, then just burned on down the line another 100 yards, whipped a cutback into the inside sandy pit throwing over the sandbar, popped out of that one too, raced down the line of now waist-high remainder, floated atop it when it finally closed out then dropped into the tiny remaining whitewash and got spat up on the beach right next to where I left my sandals! A lot of times, I'll stupidly paddle back out after a great wave near the end of my sesh, and then have to end on something mediocre or float around forever waiting for another set. This time there was no arguing with success. Stoked!
Been there, hate when I do that, I'll have another 10 minutes left in my session before I gotta head home or w/e, and rather then getting out and giving up those 10 minutes after a sweet ride, I paddle back out and milk it for another 11 minutes trying to get an even better ride, but it almost never happens. Greed man... greed.
Telling yourself "just one more" or "next one's in" is the best recipe for generating a 30 minute lull.
One more mode... I should've gotten out a while ago, my blood sugar is low, I'm making poor decisions in the water, I am one or all of the following: cold, hungry, or tired, and its too dark and/or I'm late for something and/or Mrs. Two Barrels got out and changed an hour ago and is now doing that passive aggressive thing where she will walk up to the beach and wave but in doing so she is sending a secondary message that if I don't get out soon there will be sexual sanctions... and then one of two things happens: I get a great wave, at which time I paddle straight back out and say "one more just like that", I settle for a wave that doesn't make top 10 of the day, and I paddle back out and say "one more..." 88% of the time it ends in disappointment.
So true, don't know why I do it, but it happens a lot HAHA. Occasionally it works out and I walk away feeling on top of the world. I hate paddling in to get out, much prefer riding one to the sand.
I know that wave from the wife. Mine usually hangs on the beach and when she's ready she just stands and waits, but usually after 3.5 - 4hrs of me surfing...
that's why I never bring people who don't surf to the beach with me.nobody wants to sit on the beach while ur in the water having a blast.after every wave that takes u to the sand and u do the lap and they say are u done yet?no.another thing I do is leave my cellphone at home.u never know,ur about to paddle out in epic surf and ur phone rings and u think should I answer it,u do and u have to abort the mission.lessons learned
AARRRR I KNOW! Two weeks ago I took a break and saw 11 missed calls from Mrs. Two Barrels. I figured it was something womanportant like "I want to paint the foyer Abeline grey" or "I think the cat is depressed". I checked the voicemail and it said the septic was backed up and the shower drain was spewing up black crap. Mission aborted.