Is this the frustration vent thread? My time to whine. It's been a week now with not much more than a ripple. Had better luck during summer. Anyone in VB finding anything ride-able? I know, sounds like same song and dance. Can't find my tampons. More running and gym time lately. A few more chores done around the house. Getting back to practicing music and reading some Faulkner. So not a total loss Finally, out of desperation, I threw my board on the car Friday before going to work. Paddled out at noon and caught a few sorry sets. But mostly I was like a fishing bobber on a pond. Felt a bit dumb out there, but had to get in the water. Got some paddling in anyway. No more short suit(e). 4/3 and boots now.
surfing pretty consistently, training hard in the pool/weight room and beginning to surf better than you ever have before only to.... have it go flat for days and days. The east coasters reality.
Ive come to realize over the years that its been flat a while when I start snapping at my mrs. Been doing that alot the past two weeks. Been stoked on climbing though, and the winter season is upon us, a lot more boardriding opportunities await us this time of year. Found out that I can get free lift tickets to many NE mountains through work, pretty happy to hear that. I took my cruiser for a ride to the mechanic last week, got me re interested in skating again, its been tough moving back to the land of 5 ft transition.
Feeling an air of stoke right now that I haven't felt in a while - not sure how many days/weeks that means. But it's at least been "a while". Good chance of decent rideable waves here the next 4 days and that's definitely got a lot to do with it. Took a personal inventory of things on my plate yesterday also and am looking at them in a better way. Coupled with good chance of swell and I'm stoked. Really need to get on a wave today and wapaahhhhh. Then do it again the following 3 days.
Felt the urge to leave work early and went to the beach with the intention to fish. Heard that the the bight was on. no birds or bait in the water but a thigh high peak was peeling off the sand bar in both directions with one guy out. ran back for the Long board and got some. Fade right, swing the board around left and run to the nose, get back to the tail and drop knee turn right and run to the nose, get back to the tail and turn left again. paddle out and repeat. 2 hour surf until the tide filled in and I hardly got my hair wet. Got home and my boy showed me he earned his white belt and kicked me in the shin really hard. I'm stoked.
Watching the cams yesterday when the fog started to clear. Saw some nice looking peaks with the potential to start working once the wind changed and the tide dropped out. Lost my booties and gloves on the way back to the car halloween weekend...so I tell my supervisor I'm dipping out at lunch. Head to Irish Riviera to scoop some new joints. I ended up going with some dipped gloves cause they were the cheapest. I drive down Ocean Ave. scoping the scene and find a nice little peak (waist, chest on the plus sets)coming off one the jetties and reforming a little on the inside and one other guy in the water. I paddles out catching a little spray on the way and the stoke factor is already set in(dem negative ions). As soon as I reach the take off a set comes through. I wait for the second to last wave hop on pump the face and work the little reform. After about 2 hours I start feeling a little chilled so I waited for the standout and rode it into the sand. After getting out I take my gloves off and realize my fingers are prettty numb. Frustrated I just waisted $40 but then again I was well aware of the curse of dipped gloves. Plus side it was really warm so changing outside of the car was cake. Drank a beer got in the car fired up the frankincense and headed home. All in all it was good day and I fell better about life this morning!
You need gloves down there? 2 hours before dark without gloves in the other Irish Riviera north of you, no problem. Unreal sunset.
Yeah I've got horrible circulation in my hands. I probably would have been better without those dipped gloves..definitely holding water!
RRRRRRRFFFFFAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWKKKKKKKKKRRRRRR!!!!!! 2 major life curveballs: 1- This morning the furnace goes. It's an electrical issue. I call the furnace/oil company and say "send somebody out but don't send the last guy you sent because the furnace confused him" (it's high tech multiple zones, multiple heat sources, elec and oil hw heater looped with timers, etc). They send the same dude out. I only find this out when I get home from work to find the bro tooling away after several billable bourse, just as confused as he was months ago when we got the furnace fired up for the season. He's gonna come back tomorrow with the other guy who I requested, who knows how to fix it. It's an electric box on an old furnace. Best way to describe it: the alternator in my burner went. $1000 with man hours probably. 2 - Mrs Two Barrels got fired. Yup. Comes home and melts down, calms down and says "whys it so cold in here." Be humble I said. Maybe don't watch multiple seasons of GreysnAnatomy or the Good Wife on your work computer I said. Nah, you're a grumpy old coot, you don't know, she said. Seriously though-- it's my fault. I file a complaint at the hospital she works at because they order the wrong Mir (without contrast). They bill me for both. I contest. A month later I go I go for a cortisone shot and the hospital she works for bills me for an overnight stay, I file a second complaint. I was there for 1:30. The complaint is the formality for the credit/refund. They send me an updated bill for the same amount for "miscellaneous charges" and reprimand her for HIPPAA violations for changing an appointment for me a few weeks earlier. Fast forward- a month ago she gets a mandatory flu shot and they do it too high on her tiny arm, and her shoulder is messed up. Doctors tell her to file workers comp in case she needs physical therapy. Fiirst her boss won't sign it, and then finally they deny her claim. She gets s lawyer, he sub,it's paperwork on Saturday, she gets fired today. Her bossy is a puss that drinks at mah bar. Not any longer. Nerds gettin rodeoed in the back alley. Stoke: belly high and clean all day tomorrow. Eff my furnace I'm gettin wet. ***** can fill out unemployment ish without me.
Paddled out today to dope waves. First time getting stoked on anything at the home break in a month. If not for SoCal 3 weeks ago it'd have been that long for me. Way too damn long. Anywayz, high tide incoming at the right break for that occasion was real fun. Got nearly 2 hours in until dark. Air was just over 40 and water just under 50. Offshores were 15+ but felt far milder. Buoy was supposed to be 3' but was over 6' by afternoon! Period was 10-11 which was perfect. First day of the season back in the 5/4. Could only find one 3mm boot so I wore my 7s. Couldn't find gloves so was ready to go without until the LBer who parked in front if me let me borrow his m claws. What a good dude and not sure how long I'd have lasted if not for those. Pretty packed lineup but stayed segregated with right peeps in the right spots. A dude on a log dropped in on buddy and yelled at him for his own error then threw his LB at buddy's head leaving a cut over the brow. You don't do that at a break you're either a guest or a local at. Hilarious. Wasn't sure what stick to paddle out on so I figured I'd try and dial the 5'8 Coil in some more. Could've used more foam to paddle with but that stick did me just fine. Still dialing it in but got some very fun rides on it. Trew a bucket with back fins out on one backside ride so that made my day. Made a point to give a lot of input to tje board and it helped. That board does what you tell it to right away but doesn't do anything til you tell it to do something. Got timing right with it for later drops and I'm happily getting into the high line on takeoffs consistently now. Anyone else get stoked? It's getting colder, that's for sure.
Glad to hear you scored Emass. I had an off day. I go in slumps. I was up in NH at dead low this late morning and was disappointed in the way they were coming in, the lack of lined-up posturing, etc. Headed north with the winter suitE on in the car and caught em clean and lined up in Maine. I was just off, a step behind in my timing, etc. I had one highlight reel wave, the rest were bleh. Timing was way off. I took a quad that I think I am outgrowing (read: too fat for) that wasn't ideal, and a thusta that I forgot my quad rears for because I wish I had em. Add to that my winter suitE has a few holes I am learning about. When it rains... But at the end of the day, I watched the sunset in the water and then went and ate Chinese food. Life isnt so bad.
U2B good stuff. We should charge together some time. I'm sure you got your rides in. I had a fairly similar sesh as you, not the most consistent overall. Gotta have limited expectations when you're not paddling out more than once every couple weeks due to severe flatness. Doesn't help that I haven't exactly been living on the Carver as of late. Skating frequently ensures that I have good door placement on the surfboard and I had limited potential on a few waves tonight when my feet weren't always finding the right spots. It's mostly my back foot failing to "reach" for the tail pad. All good braddah. Plan to chase leftovers tomorrow hoping buoy is still ok then look forward to sessions next weekend. You straighten things out with Mrs. 2B or what bro?
Mrs.2B is funemployed currently as of Thursday. Small town hospital drama. Furnace was working when I came home though. I will take that. Emass you north of south shore MA?
Stoked! Found just what I had been looking for: 3/2 back-zip. Excellent condition. EBay's for $150, picked mine up for $16 at the same thrift store where I got my 4/3 last year for $25! Love living in a surf town! Solid swell on tap 4 out of 5 days this week, with decent winds. Looking forward to a bunch of liquid lunches!
Stoked again! That wettie is a fing dream! Super stretchy, like wearing nothing at all! Seals so well that it stayed dry for the first 10 minutes! I got barreled before my nuts got damp, lol! Warmer and way lighter than my old 4/3. The backzip and batwing are just what I wanted. Easy to get in and out for those quickie sessions. Like yesterday. As expected, it was HH+ and heavy! Racy barrels with few exits. Typical winter swell. Oil-slick glass but not too cold water. Got a 5-second barrel, sick! Only me and a guy I know out. Hoping for a repeat today before the swell backs down for a while.