Ya'll on this here surf predictin' site have proven that The Stoke still lives large! Big shout out to Ms. Betty, and all our chargers and anyone on here who has caught a wave and felt the adrenaline rush provided my our Mother Ocean. As I've gotten older and my skills have gone downhill, my stoke remains at a grom like level. A sincere thanks to everyone who goes out in the water and spreads the Aloha vibe. Peas and Waves!!! Peajay, special shout out for honoring the pure reason for being on here. Adnibs, thanks for habbin us!
Yeaaaa SiS...irie vibes! Last week I got to surf with two high school buds that still charge. Three of us but it was like a solo sesh and like we were still 18. My boy had a little kine for between sessions. I was out there acting young and hootin and having a blast. This site is good for most of us. It gives us a place to feel da vibe with folks we don’t even surf with. There are at least 10 guys (and a gal) I would love to trade waves with, and your one of them! Awwwwwriiiittte!!!!
Sometimes it's hard to keep the fire burning. Long flat spells need to be waited out. Life's challenges have to met. Physical challenges need to be overcome. It's not golf. But once I get in the water on my board, all is good, even if it's not a good surf session. Surfing with a few well behaved and talented kids is always a blast, it raises my stoke level to see their stoke. Same with sharing story on this site, it keeps the stoke alive. Which pro surfer spreads the stoke for you? I always thought Occy was a hoot! Young Occy pissed off all the Hawaiians and old Occy pulled off the comeback.
When Occy came back in 1999 and won, after all of the obstacles he put in his own way, it blew my mind. Loved it. Looking back, i feel like Occy's win marked the end of the era where a surfer could still win it all without being an elite level athlete, devoted to conditioning, and all polished and well rounded. Occy could basically do one thing....throw massive backets, gouge huge turn on his backhand with a clunky style.
Barton lynch on the WSL broadcasts is awesome. He just loves surfing. Then there is this Russ Short clip that always gets me pumped.
That was a blast from the past. Seeing Jeff Crawfish & Company in their glory years. We had some great times cutting our teeth in the gladiator pit back in the late 70s, early 80s. It was epic and aggro. I remember Jackie Grayson and his fu manchu almost ran me over on porpoise one OH day at 1st peak. That was a rush LOL
I'm 60 and still stoked. Gonna go under the gamma knife in a couple weeks. My vision is to be back up on a boart riding a wave by April/May on a big ass LB with a helmet and a pair of water wingies. SUP if necessary ( I hope knot). Dear adnibs, have a happy 2020 if you learn to surf. Cheers, The Dog of Singer Island Surf....Ruff, Ruff, Ruff!!!
