Struggling younglings cant afford the equiptment or the trips but have all the time and ability. Older bros have the stuff but no time to stay in shape or get in the water because of life. The yin and the yang. Today is tomorrows good old days bouys.
Then I pull up the cam at 2:30 on a weekday and its packed... don't you Mf'ers work!?! Got damn! But then I remember, I used to have irregular hours. I gave that up to have a predictable schedule. I used to get a random weekday off, and I used to get no days off at all. The yin and yang are very real. Try to appreciate both, for what they are. Fake Confucius say: he who never tasted bitter, does not appreciate sweet.
One can only live in the present. The past is gone, can be learned from but should not be dwelt on; tomorrow has not yet arrived. It's also a matter of priorities and balance. One must continue to grow and adapt. Perspectives and interests change with each stage of life...as one gets older and hopefully wiser.
When I was younger I had all kinds of time and no money, now that I'm a bit older I have some money but no time...
I find the majority of life's struggles are ones we create our self. Once we identify a struggle / challenge in our life, determine a way to reduce or eliminate said struggle and make daily progress toward achieving the goal. The longer we wait, the bigger the struggle may seem in the mind. Act now, life / time does not wait for anybody. You never know when time is up.
Spent my whole young life pretty dirt poor so never had the chance to do more than wish. Fast forward to semi adulthood now and then had no time to do more than raise a family, still wishing. Had the money now but no time. Then one day you realize you have to MAKE time or it will be nothing but wishes and regrets. And that’s the struggle now. And time doesn’t slow for anyone except on that wave...ironic.
Hell yeah. You guys already know. I'll wake up at 3 AM (summer) and surf, go straight to work, maybe grab a sesh after work, then spend time with the lady, repeat. While working and going to college it was even worse. Wake up, surf, class by like 8, go to work which was at a restaurant meaning I'd get out somewhere between 10PM-2AM depending on day. Repeat. Plenty of times i went a week with only a handful hours sleep. "That's not healthy" i always hear. Yeah well not being happy ain't healthy either. Now that i work a more regular job i have less time and the job takes more out of me then class or waiting tables. But i still make it work. The positive? I got the money for trips and those sick days and vacation days for when it's worth it.
Your making the time. You seem to have gotten that idea pretty early on lol...+1 And it pays. Sometimes the worst enemy you can have is that inner voice that tries to tell you you can’t... Some people’s voices are louder than others. I hear voices. What?
Waves gets you thru times with no money... Better than money gets you thru times with no waves or something like that I prefer money and waves who doesn't? But making the cash has it's inherent entanglements unless you win the powerball. Just make the best out of what you have. When I get a few waves, it makes all the BS worth it. Yin and yong theory sets up the cooperation of opposites to create an electrical charge of vitality. It's chi. If you ate lobster every day and got barreled every day you'd start to crave a ribeye and a long gentle peeling wall after a while. It's how we are wired.
