~The Swell that Will be Forever Tainted~

Hope everyone scored on Sunday, the pictures seem to speak for themselves. I decided that it might be amusing for me to share my side of the Hurricane Bill story with everyone b/c I did NOT score. Unfortunately for myself I will remember it as a bittersweet swell.

After gloating at the models all week in anticipation for the "swell of the decade" I felt like a kid on xmas eve! As soon as the first hint of swell began to show Friday morning and I was on it. It was about chest high and the wind on it pretty good, but it was still worth the paddle out. During this session, the outside sets were not connecting, the big set waves would break outside and then reform on the inside. With a longboard and a little bit of luck your were in business. However, I was riding a my shortboard so I sitting on the inside looking to pick off a couple of bowly sections to warm up for what was to come. After about an hour, I had my fix and upon exiting the water I notice my fin box was pushed into the deck about 2-3 mm on the left side. In the 12 years that I have surfed, I have never had this happen to me once- I had no idea how it happened but what I did know was that I was now without my go-to shortboard and there was no time to properly repair it (fin boxes would have to be ordered to fix it properly and I didnt want to half-@ss the repair). So I did what any rationale surfer would do on a pay day friday in the midst of a hurricane swell...I went to my local shop and bought myself a new stick.

So now Im cloud-nine-stoked, not only was Hurricane Bill going to send us epic swell, but I was going get my first taste of this years juice on my new 6'2 roundtail - fckin sweeeeet. So Sunday morning finally arrives and I hop a ride to a local break with two of my buddies and my new shortboard in hand - life is good (Oh and I must say, nothing beats waxing up a new board for the first time). I paddled out smiling ear to ear and within seconds I see the first set on the horizon. I'm positioned perfectly and drop in on a solid 6ft left, I literally happened to be at that sweet spot where you make about two paddles and your up and in. One turn, two turn and then a racey section - three or four pumps into the section I notice the wall of water to my left doubling up quick~! It was getting super shallow and I was out of time to pull out unscathed, so I pulled in tight and hoped for the best....I think at this point you know what happened, my new board got trashed. ON THE FIRST WAVE nonetheless. My right fin box was ripped out and what was suppose to be one of the best sessions in years quickly turned sour.

But wait, there was still hope to at least save the session (a couple of barrels would help me forget about the board real quick) I have a couple of other boards at the house. One problem though. My buddy drove and there's no way I'm getting him out of the water to drive my stupid a$$ back to the house. Desperate times call for desperate measures, so I called my sleeping girlfriend and woke her up at 7am. "Um, darling......Can you do me a HUGE favor ......" Fortunately, she took pity on my surfer soul and said she would come bring me a board! "Which one she asked.....", I told her, grab the WRV, no wait...(she doesnt know them by brand), grab the one with the two dolphins. "GOT IT, Im on my WAY" (what a gal)

I patiently wait to see her car at the end of the street, twenty loooong minutes (and about 5 set waves later) she arrives. As I skip over to her car I suddenly notice there are NO FINS on the board! HOLY Sh....Somebody was going to die. Unfortunately my new board had futures and the this one needed FCS fins. FOCKKKKKKKK To say I was devastated was an understatement.....I dont remember much as to what I was specifically thinking at that point, I think I've blocked it out of my memory completely.

I eventually got fins about another 45 mins later, but it was too late. The session was officially tainted. Not only had I broken a board, but I had missed the BEST conditions. By the time I got in the water they had significantly deteriorated with the incoming tide. Next thing I know, the lifeguards showed up and were whistling everybody to come in.... game over

Although I ended up having a fun afternoon session along with another fun sesh monday I still have not felt right since. This swell event will forever be tainted in my mind forever. With every incredible picture posted online I feel cheated....Two broken boards and about a thousand bill wave pics later, I think Im finally getting over it. Writing all this down helped make me feel a lil better. At the very least I hope I give somebody a good laugh and a "damn, sucks to be you...."

Morale of the story, expect the worse and hope for the best b/c you never know. Oh and bringing back up board


PS

The new tropical depression located just northeast of Puerto Rico looks pretty promising. Today it was upgraded from medium to high probability for formation, Im hoping the swell models also get upgraded as well on their next update. Its going to be tough to follow up a major swell event like Bill but at the very least it might give me a little shot at redemption. I always welcome bold and especially optimistic predictions....Any thoughts?

 

Couple Pictures

Tough to see, but the fin box is sunken in about 2-3 mm and the fin angle is off about 30 degrees, tried paddling back out but it only got worse.


Fin box removed, waiting for a new one in the mail from foamez so repair can be made.
Mad props to my roommate the dalai lama of board repairs and master shaper.
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