total junk last night, but so glad i went out, got a few whatever thef you wanna call them...nixing the hood alone and getting into a leaky 5/3 was reason enough to get out - agreed, it's all context
It usually looks like garbage from the beach, but when I get out there it is usually better than it looks. Sometimes, crowded or not, it is like solving a puzzle. There are waves to be had, just the right position at a lucky slot of time, and a good peak leading to a shreddable section, a possible reform into a shorebreak floater or barrell section. Then you say to yourself, damn, I think I'll stroll back up the beach and do another loop.
The one who surfed junk. He or she would quickly transfer the skill set into perfect waves and go nutz. Unless the perfect wave is Pipeline, then it is too big of a jump. But if you are talking a Lowers type wave, I think the kid from there would get frustrated in less than perfect surf, and become tired out from paddling and eating it, and would quit surfing entirely in a matter of days, turn to dealing drugs, get arrested, end up being someones bit(h. IMO
Yep. I'm a bad surfer, but on those rare days here when it's really lined up, just peeling and light offshore wind, I feel like I can do anything I want on the wave and usually do (within reason, of course). On those choppy and dumpy days I feel like a total kook most of the time. It's like a night and day difference.
Agreed, surfing slop definitely has enhanced my skills on good waves. When I finally get a good wave after battling slop it's like surfing sober vs. being completely hammered. Or it's like going from racing off-road with lots of bumps, dips and sh*t and then finally getting on smooth pavement with a long straight away, you can just stomp the throttle and really open up the repertoire.
choppe lol. i said choppe. let me rethink this one. if i surfed head-high choppe every day for a month and only had like 2-4 second rides to successfully complete one turn on a wave, i would improve my surfing. but, i would be limited to what I could do as far as linking turns, top to bottom surfing, all that fun stuff you get to do on a nicer lined-up wave. i would get super fit from all of the duckdiving and breath holding and eating sh** on one out of 3 waves. i would become a fit reactive surfer. if i surfed a head-high point break or reef break with a nice crumbly wall takeoff and a barrel section on the inside, i would be able to hone my skillz/maneuvers to the point of perfecting them. i would know what the wave was going to do, and plan to hit a section or tuck into the barrel etc. you can mind-surf a wave like that, and visualizing something in athletics is important to improve performance. true story. either way, you advance as a surfer. if it looks like junk from the beach, chances are it's still junk, but you'll have more fun surfing and learning something. i almost did that Sunday morning...looked like junk, i was about to drive home, but I paddled out anyway. still had some fun.
southern florida has to be the best place on the east coast during the winter for consistency there always seems to be waves like every week there is something to ride. i moving out of this **** hole and its my number 2 if i dont make it to cali or if it doesnt work out there thats where im heading. the jupiter area i think would suit me the best and our fishing here is amazing but you can catch fish year round down there. oh yeah and a spring suit at most is wonderful, how can you beat it? another good reason.
groundswell is great and all but yall know it doesnt take much of it to close out every wave at our beach breaks which is 90% of what we have on the ec. and slop has always improved my surfing because when its glassy and good i go insane like wanye.
South Florida is way less consistent than Central and North Florida. But it can hold swell over head high which can't really be said of North or Central Florida.
yeah ive noticed that about north and central with the height. yeah your right on that as well i forgot about new smyrna, they got the bend around palm beach so they can handle northern winds like the rest of florida cant. who has better wind.
This is not a Tao of Head High Point Break or Reef Break with a Nice Crumbly Wall Takeoff and a Barrel Section on the Inside tread. Go start you own tread on this subject. Windchop rules!!!!
You are right about the consistency but there are spots that handle large swell just fine in N. Or Central FL, gotta know which ones though, which I learned by trial and error.
Yup, for sure. I have been up there at spots that hold way way overhead on good hurricane swells. I'll even name one because no one will paddle out there anyway...Monster Hole....go for it on a big day...with out a jet ski....and send us pics.
im good on not doing that the pictures of it when its goes off are amazing but to many sharks for me, i didnt know people take skis out there. i remember that last spot at reef road where that dude had a ski and people were giving him the middle finger and telling the ski to **** off.
HAHA That's certainly one of them, and spot naming it won't do any damage for the very reasons mentioned, roll of the dice that one!
i cannont remember who did it but it was so funny he posted like 3 pages of every good spot on the coast in new jersey and told and a guide on how to get there with road directions lol.
maybe but that pissed off so many people i laughed so hard i wonder if its still on here i think it got removed. i have noticed that its been getting more laid back since the magic see**** invasion.