The Tao of Windchop

^^^This!
My window for surfing is usually early morning with the exception of sundays so I gotta take what I can get.
I prefer the "closeouts" over the mush anyday.

 

F**k yeah! Murica!

 

well said.I have no good experience with groundswells.there was one,but it was a mix between a ts and a low,called nor'ida,think it was 2012.that day was good,first and only time I screamed for help.nobody helped lol.

I havnt missed a groundswell in all my years surfing.the only 2 were sandy and Irene because I was flooded in.but every single time,at many different spots,just long lines of closeouts.the only optional groundswell I can speak of,which wasn't even good,was hurricane bill.it was the biggest day I ever witnessed in jersey,even made the treck out to the good ol Manasquan inlet.first time ever going there,only because its "allegedly" the only spot that can handle a swell that big.plus I was trying to meet pete mendia,alek parker,and cory lopez because I knew they would come to jersey for that swell for their hurricane hunter webisodes.I went out around 7 in the morning hoping id be one of the first,but man there must of been atleast 90 people in the water(not even exaggerating),another 80 on the jetty,and another 300 on the beach spectating.there were closeout sets breaking 50 yards past the jetty,which is very rare.the only good rides I seen were from spongers,and they were mostly closeouts.tropical storms are usually decent since they don't have the swell period as the bigger groundswells.

but compared to a low pressure system in winter,no argueing winter wins.or wind chop whatever u folks call it.certain days it breaks like a reef break,where theres 1 solid sandbar and the wave is constantly breaking in or around the same area,instead of all over the place like a groundswell.u can paddle out and not duckdive once and be in some nice little barrels.u don't have to paddle against the rip,unless its a south swell,but still not as bad as a groundswell rip,and your wave count at the end of the day is through the roof.plus it breaks closer to shore so its a lot easier on the body for u "surfed out" folks.

 

So this tread inspired me to paddle out yesterday afternoon (after much internal debate). Paddle out kinda sucked, waves kinda sucked. Waves were about stomach high. Choppy, mushy, peaky, short period, onshore and just not offering much of anything at all. No one is really getting anything. Was out there for about an hour and a half without getting much. Just kinda make the drop, bottom turn, kick out. So, I'm like "alright next one in". I was actually debating paddling in because at this point I'd been waiting for a decent one for awhile to take in.

But THEN, the perfect looking (considering the conditions) right bowls up right in front of me. I spin and take a couple strokes. Foamy take off and off I go. Not much on offer but I'm determined to take this baby all the way in, so I cut it back and bank off the foam and now the right is starting stand up about to dump...SCHWACK!!!!! and back left I go for the racy inside section. It's bowling up down the line and once again WAPAAAHHH!!! as it shuts down. I lay down on my board and ride the wash the rest of the way in and get out of the water feeling like a G.

So the lesson is: If in doubt, go ahead and go out. You might not regret it. Or you might. But you'll never know till you go brah.

 

...and then you woke up to realize it was a dream?

 

No. It really happened. Although it may or may not have actually looked as cool as I made it sound (but I like to think it did). But that's the gist of it.

 

“When nothing is done,
nothing is left undone.”
― Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching: Book Of The Way








......so stay the F home KOOKS!!!!!!!!

 

For the record, I apologize for waging Mr. Obama's left testicle. It is not mine to wager.
Maybe Hillary's wizard sleeve instead, ugh.