the things you love about surfing

Wow Tard!! this is a great thread!!!

I like the water.

I love the glide.

and oh yea... the waves are good too...

but far exceeding all- is Belmar, NJ. My favorite thing about surfing...

 

All of the above sure, but for me... chicks paddling in little 'kinis in a tropical lineup.

 

The ability and privilege to archive memories of tubes from years past at will, and the all encompassing and ever hopeful inspiration that today, or sometime soon, could contribute to those recollections.

 

When you first get in the water in the morning, slightly chilly, but thats when the engines really start kicking in.

The feeling like you are floating after a good ride, you actually want to cheer for yourself. LOL

Tower, this is Ghost Rider requesting a flyby. Negative, Ghost Rider, the pattern is full

 

Everything about it.

 

This is scientifically proven. Posting research results soon.

 

I was never a huge fan of the fear aspect, but now that I don't have it, I do miss it. It was always an incredible feeling to challenge yourself and come out the other side unscathed.

Now, a good session, and half the time a mediocre session just leaves me content. It appeases my inner demons.

Even if its waist high, and I spend a couple hours out walking up and down the log, when I get back out of the water, I have a completely different outlook on the day.

It's like having one of your highest priorities, the thing that you covet so much checked off your list for the day, so you can actually focus, 100% on other things. And I feel like I do so with more energy and passion at that point.

We all want surf so badly, now that I get it, its like I am temporarily complete. Not for long, but at least for a day.

I have NEVER taken waves for granted, ever. I made sure, come hell or high water, knee high of TOH I would find a way, find a board and find the motivation to go out. Every day.

I no longer have that, so I think it means a lot more now. I have the motivation, just not the waves.

But I look back and am very thankful that for whatever reason, I made the life choices that I did, and I was able to have that part of my life, completely lost in the waves. The emotion that guided me every day was stoke. It never wavered, it never failed me. And even though there are a million or so surfers in the world, in my eyes, I don't think any one of them ever felt the way that I did about it. I know that is not true, but the connection I had, no matter who I surfed with, no matter how good they were or where we were, I just had something going on inside that they didn't. I know that isn't true, but it sure feels that way.

Like I said, what do I like about surfing? Everything.

 

Word, this is a great way of explaining it. Fear is often more of a motivator than anything else. Fear isn't necessarily a bad thing, it's healthy but when conquered, very rewarding.

 

+1 for pretty much everyone here. +10 for Yank and LBCrew.

My take on it:

Coming over the Snow's cut bridge. At the peak can finally see the ocean. Pulse starts to quicken. Pull up and park and feeling like a kid at Disneyland thinking "can't this line go any faster?". Forcing myself to stop and stretch, take a deep breath, study the waves for a moment. The refreshing feeling of the cool salty ocean water when you first get in for that AM session.

Being sotally tober for the first session. Alert, senses tuned and acute, focused. Hitting wave after wave in the AM until worn out. Hit the beach to refuel\hydrate\rest for a bit. Staring intently at the waves the entire time. Unable to look away, like its a chick so hot you just can't stop staring and don't care if she notices. Tide switches, its still firing...back in the water.

2nd sesh of the day. Sun's up a bit now, its warmed up some. Waves just keep rollin' in. Go and go and go until worn out again. Hit the beach, eat some lunch, rest a bit. Have a beverage or two. Or three. Or six.

PM now. Waves still firing. Pop by the truck real quick. Hit the water again with a nice mellow buzz. Already have a belly full of waves so no need the charge after everything. Just catching whatever and playing around. Goof around, try something new, fall, laugh...Rinse, repeat.

Back to the beach to recharge one last time. Late PM now. Sitting out the back just floating with a good buzz and that well satisfied feeling of having caught a seemingly endless supply of waves. Taking turns with some good peeps hooting into waves and laughing at ourselves and each other when we eat it. Watching the lil ones surfing and boogie'ing on the inside break. That golden glow of the setting sun matching the golden glow inside the soul. Catch one last wave in, just gliding down the line and soaking it all up, wishing it could go on forever.

Hit the beach, start a fire, eat a steak, have a blood mary, hit the truck again, then crawl into the tent and sleep like a baby.

Wake up as the sun rises the next AM...there are waves...

Definition of a good time for me...

"This has all happened before, it will all happen again."

 

metard somehow virtually dosed us all with this thread.

 

I've had my lil one memorize and repeat this phrase:

"Fear keeps you alive, panic gets you killed."

 

I need to find out where you be camping Hombre. Sounds like there are plenty of waves. Nicely done.

 

Thanks Zach.

Depends on your definition of waves. For me anything that will float me qualifies. Some others may look at it and say "meh, too small/blown out/etc. not worth it". If there's anything rideable, I'm going. Last weekend hit 1.7 at 9 secs and clean for a couple hours and I was happy.

 

Well put and gorgeous pic Gaff. How's that knee coming along?

One of my fav pics:

 

I didn't read most of this thread, but this statement above is exactly what I thought of when I read Metard's initial post. After so many years...I still get this.

Oh, I also contemplated the phosphorescence at night (with two naked girls) part of Metard's post, but I really can't claim that one for myself.

 

the anticipation of waves, that moment when you know a trop system crosses the threshold of our wave window and you know you are going to get some good sized waves in a few days

 

Nice one Gaff, I got that picture hanging up on my wall at home, I believe it's titled "Sunrise Curl" if i'm not mistaken

 

Well said Gaff, and tits pic.

 

TUBES, I SURF FOR TUBES!!!

all4blues mentioned tubes, gaff had a picture, but none of you c unting c unts said tubes, did I miss it> do you not like tubes?

 

Tubes are my second favorite thing to do in surfing. I think we all love tubes though. Big and small.