There's fifty people out.......

So if you're not him, and he's not you... AND you're from VB (saw that in another thread) then you might be another long lost fellow....

Anybody seen LeeTheStud lately? Maybe he can clear up this conspiracy...

 

Im whoever this forum wants me to be.

 

We all surf for different reasons. This gentlemen surfs for the exact opposite reasons I surf.

 

I hear you. That isn't WHY I surf. That is just an example of some of the situations that we will find ourselves in, that can be enjoyed. My point is, nobody likes when the surf sucks, and it's crowded... But there are plenty of times, when the waves are cranking, lots of people are out, and people that don't even surf are just lined up everywhere, dreaming of doing what we do... Maybe other people don't feel the way I feel... I mean, I can't imagine anyone that surfs, gets a great wave and isn't stoked that the whole lineup just saw it? I mean, I get the whole "I do this for me, nobody else" and all that, but if you don't get stoked, when you get OTHER people stoked with your surfing, I don't know what to tell you.... And sometimes, a crowded lineup, during a good swell is like being in an Arena. It's pretty exhilarating sharing good waves with people and watching other get insane rides. Its a kind of comradely that you WILL NEVER achieve, out surfing alone, at your own peak all winter. It's that time in the fall, when a hurricane swell is running, everyone knows that X is the spot today, and you go share it with a ton of people, who are all stoked out at what you are doing. It's about, when you have been waiting 10 people deep, and you are next in the lineup, and the biggest set of the day comes, and you are up. Guys you have never even met see it coming and 15 guys start hooting and cheering. It's go time, and when things go well, you can feel like a King. You can paddle back out to the lineup knowing, that you, if nothing more just gained the respect of every guy out there.. When things go wrong, you may feel like just paddling in... I can't imagine a cooler place to be while surfing, then right in the thick of it, not hiding away somewhere so you can be one with the ocean.

It's the same as if some kid is playing around on a boogie board on the inside and just stares at you while you take your last ride in and as you leave the water, they either say something, or just smile from ear to ear because they thought, wow that was pretty cool. If that doesn't stoke you out, then yeah, I guess we don't surf for the same reason.

To each their own.

 

Don't you love it when you are on the peak of a big set, and two or three guys call you in by name, and when you kick out the back it's all ear to ear smiles and hoots? Validation on a good day at a good spot is just that. Well earned and replayed over again in the brain. I can still remember the last time, at Corners on a clean head to overhead day with the boyz out, and I got called into one out of fustration by the alpha dude, who wasn't at the right spot at the right time, so he called me in, not all happily like "GO Bro!", more like "Aw Shi!, Go Bro!" I laughed at him as I went, and he smiled, somewhat sincerely, but in a "you got me" kind of way. I love that. That inspires me to keep in shape and go for the good waves on the good days at the good spots. Every dog has his day.

 

I wish I had surfing buddies that could hoot me into waves,i usually hoot myself into waves,mostly closeouts.theres 50 guys out there but nobody by me.i don't mind sharing waves,aslong as theres no more than 3 people.that's why I don't try to sound all good or cocky surfer,im usually in the water with nobody in the sand,cant tell if im ripping or kooking it,but im still having a blast.thats what I always thought about surfing,u do it with nobody around so nobody can judge,nobody knows,nobody cares.

people that only do things when others are watching are just lame to the game.its like katt Williams talking about the guy in the gym that has to get everyones attention before they lift,like do u even lift bro?people take pictures,claim to be photogs but only posting shyt to facebook and trying to sell it.iv probably got about 300,000 photos in my attic over the past 20 yrs,another 2000 on my digital cam,never sold or shown anyone,i don't even know what I have.i also do oil paintings on canvases,never sold any, or even tried,would be cool tho if people bought em.

but its todays generation every kid only thinks about getting sponsors and being a pro,instead of just doing it for a hobby.little Mexicans playing basketball,who are probably as good as Jordan don't think about becoming pros,just doin it for the love and that's how I am.trying to make a profit off it is selling yourself out.not saying nothing wrong with becoming a pro,but if u drop 10 gopro clips a week taking off on 2ft waves and half making an air reverse,barely clearing the lip,then I think u should stick to the sport as a hobby.its actually really easy to get sponsored today,i wish skateboarding was that easy id be a pro.all u really have to do is be rich and be able to afford classy photogs and make an edit with u doing 10 air reverses in super slow mo and a few trips to indo and your in.I rarely see an edit with power surfing,and if u cant throw spray yay hi than u don't belong on a video on the internet

 

I hear what you guys are saying, makes sense. I personally prefer to surf alone, but there are times where that's just not possible when the waves are cranking. It does feel good when you have a really good ride and everybody sees it and gives you props. Like anything else, it's nice to get that validation that you did something right, but for me it's not required or even sought after, it just happens on crowded days where everybody is pushing each other.

As for the lineup thing, I can't say too many of those are that organized around here where you actually wait in line, it's pretty much whoever gets in and to their feet first takes the wave most of the time. If you go to the Jetty it's usually whoever is closest to the Jetty but not always the case, sometimes people just go, no matter what HAHA

 

And for every day of those validations and stoke, there is a slice of humble pie that is usually served by an up and coming 13 year old in days following.

It's not all about "validation", but I will say it like this: Everyone's mom, or girlfriend, or buddies who don't surf probably think that they are "Kelly Slater" and all that. It's easy to get a pat on the back by people who don't know what they are looking it... But to be among your peers, the ones who understand it, and respect the commitment level that it takes to put on a good display of surfing, that is just a nice feeling. Whatever your trade is, it's the same... I mean, skating is another great example. Most people see you jump a few stairs and they are blown away. You land a kick flip, and you are the next big thing to them... But if you go down to a legit skate arena in a major city, among your peers and you shred the fu** out of the place. That matters. It just does. It doesn't matter what stickers are on your board, or what shoes you are wearing. All that matters is that YOU just did that, who gives a fu** about photos and notoriety. Its about the next time you show up at that skate park, and people remember you and they dap you down, and you are slotted right into their lineup. That is respect that can only be earned in "The arena".... Nobody gives a fu** what you say you can do over beers, or what you claim to have done on an internet forum. All that matters is what you REALLY do, in real life. And in that scenerio, I don't mind a crowd. It gives everything a certain edge.

And I have personal photos on here of me surfing. All me. And anyone else who has ever sat through a session that they KNEW was being filmed or photoed, you know there is a whole different aspect of intensity. Its literally almost like competetive surfing. Where you know that you should try harder, go deeper, take risks that you may not normally. Same is true when a ton of people are out and watching. It gets the blood pumping in a way that it NEVER will, when you are out just chilling, goofy off. It's a hard thing to adjust to. The first handful of times you go through that, it is surprising how LITTLE footage you actually get. How bad things can look, but then every now and again, you capture a moment that will live forever. Not just in your head, but something tangible that you can look at and be proud of.

I am just saying, if anyone of you, or us, is capable or taming a wave like Pipeline, even on a 4-5 foot day, and you were out in that line, got hooted into a reeling left hander and got spit out with guys cheering, you COULDNT buy that feeling. I am not saying do it to get a cover photo, or whatever. Just to have other people experience that with you, people that understand and care. That is an unreal situation. And if you say you wouldn't come flying out of that pipeline barrel, with a full on chub popping up in your boardies, ya'll are liars.

 

Surefire way to be guest of honor at the Volcum house!

 

Yeah, I've done that

 

One day I was surfing at the North End in VB. Had the day off, there was a knee-thigh high wave out...no problems. After about an hour, between waves if you will, I hear someone yelling. Finally I turn around and this fat girl is like 30 feet away trying to get my attention. It was to the point I thought something horrible was going down so I paddled over (it was about 4.5 feet deep). She didn't need help. She wanted to say "I live around here and I don't know if you do, but this is not a good place to surf. All the good surfers go to Croatan. The waves are a lot better there."

I was blown away. Seriously. I just said leave me alone. I should have told her to lose a few pounds but I looked at it as when she goes, just one less as Forest Gump would say. I put my hands behind my back, got into the paddling position and went for the next wave.

Can someone help me here? Why is everyone so surf savvy in VB??? Either everyone is getting worse, not surfing or I am getting better. I need to go bro out at the BOXX. FML. I need a place where the bro-ometer is off the richter. Yes, I am, not, happy, about, that chick.

If enough people stand together in the water, will it make a jetty?

I'm surfing, alone, again...

 

I am gonna tell everyone I see out surfing (if we ever get anymore waves that is) at my spot that the waves are much better up at the Juno Pier, I heard it is firing there right now, so shuffle off. Haha!

 

That's a good story, killa. Was fatty standing in the surf line when she was yipping at you or was she contemplating an actual activity besides eating?

 

I suggested she put 1/2 as much energy as she did yelling at me into something physical it could do her some good. She says "I'm not trying to offend you, but no one else is here so it is not a good place to surf"