Things I learned in Maui

Hahahahaha Maui Waui

 

Yeah thats beat you got skunked. I was there a month before you.... and surfed the Harbor head - over head. The summer there is hit or miss. But, like you said you have to drive across the island....and even though the island is considered small...it takes you forever to get around it.

BTW - did you see that old ass cemetery?

 

In this order

Oahu
Kauai
Maui

 

The herbal essense dude? black dude sitting across from the harbor?

 

Was it near a shipwreck?

 

That's cool, man...sounds like you had a good time...congrats on gettin' hitched...I know the neighborhood your talking about there in Brigantine, that's where I parked...it was my first time there and I was by myself, I guess it was '05 or '06...can't remember exactly...and it was crazy, there was a storm that had come through and gone out into the ocean and I did a little research and found out where the bulk of the swell would be and it was at Brigantine...and man did I score....beautiful 8-9 foot rollers, and they just kept coming in one after the other...it was a ***** getting out that day, It took me what seemed like a half an hour to paddle out the first time and I just got annihilated and pushed back to the beach...I sat there for about 10 minutes or so and just said to myself, there's no way I'm leaving until I get out there and with that headed out and made it out fairly easily....it was superb! Caught an S-load of waves that day and there was nobody there...I couldn't believe it...it kind of helped me out to 'cause I was really bummed coming back here after being in Maui....

 

That must be sweet ass all hell living out there...I've never been to Cali, but really want to get there soon...sucks about the cold water, but at least you guys got some swell...I've been waiting for swell all year and FINALLY we're getting some...I'm all amped up for IGOR!!!

 

F#@$ yeah, summer may be inconsistent, but it's still normally a little better than Zach got it. I lived on Oahu for two years, surfed the south shore every day for three months, and I'd say the average was waist high, a little bigger if you don't mind the choppy-ness over by Diamond Head. That sucks to hear about all the SUP's. I'm definitely not a fan of that, simply because the thought of some 50 lb boat slamming me in the head because some kook doesn't know what the crap he's doing...yea.

And summer may be inconsistent, but winter on Oahu.....wooooah s@$# man, bring some HGH for your balls, because you're gonna need it. The only place I've ever been where I've stayed out of the water for 5-6 days straight during super clean conditions simply because it was so big. By the end of the first winter, I was almost praying for the swells to slow down. As an east coast surfer, I couldn't bear to not surf on a good day, and after a few months it gets stressful pulling yourself together to go surf 2x overhead all the time.

 

Yeah....everybody was calling it the Harbor. That's where I surfed everyday. When that spot is going off it is a heavy local spot. But, if you can surf and follow the rules you will be ok.

 

Yeah, I agree....I just got back last month from Oahu, Kauai and Maui. When I got to Oahu it was only waist...but as I was leaving Oahu a south swell was moving in and it got good in Kauai about 10ft on average. Maui was head high.