I agree with his first three points: The best surfer isn’t the one having the most fun, You’re getting ripped off when you buy surfboards retail, and Our heroes are often assholes. But I disagree with the last couple: Longboarding is what we do when we don’t feel like trying very hard, Surfing won’t save your soul. I believe that longboarding has it's place just as much as short boards, I see it as variety, which helps you develop different surfing styles. I find that surfing one helps me get better at the other. I try hard every time i'm out that doesn't change because i'm on a long board that day, i just try and do things that challenge me no matter what. Sounds to me that he's just so jaded as if he's such a good surfer that noseriding a LB isn't fun or even slightly challenging to him. It's not the hardest thing in the world, but when we were all learning i'm sure we all saw that and thought how awesome it would be to do that one day. If you didn't, then i'd say you probably missed the point of surfing. I believe everybody's reason for surfing is slightly different depending on who you talk to. Nothing wrong with either and one shouldn't be classified a kook because they enjoy the soulful side of surfing. It's when they are the guy who is generally in the way, at the wrong spot at the wrong time more often then not that they need to be labeled that. I find it (surfing) DOES make me a better person, believe it or not. I'm better physically, spiritually, emotionally, mentally. It's a proven fact that spending time within nature is beneficial for your mind, body and soul. It's been proven that there is a "high" that we as surfers experience when riding a wave, and the bigger or more challenging the wave the more of these "chemicals" get released into your blood stream. These being healthy chemical which create euphoria, I tend to believe it increases our quality of life. Probably won't live any longer but you'll enjoy the time you've had a lot more. And who knows, maybe when we're dead you'll just live in your head / subconscious forever like a never ending dream. Well since our subconscious records anything and everything then that means you need to surf as much as possible to fill up the memory banks with lots of surfing images and memories so you can relive it all in eternity... Think about it, If you're broke, getting barreled probably makes you feel a little less broke, not completely and reality does set back in, but you don't mind as much when you've just experienced something so many others won't. If you have a stressful life for whatever reason, surfing has a way of smoothing out those rough waters and in your / my life. It can be incredibly therapeutic, just ask some of the folks on here, or the wounded warriors. I got his points but I think deep down he probably doesn't feel that way 100% to the core.