This is laughable to most, but real

What do you mean, like charging down the beach and diving in? I love doing that sh!t man. I mean it's ridiculous when the surf is 2 foot and mushy, but still fun.

 

Ya bud, any type of expedited movement into the water. At least a jog or can be faster. Diving on board and commencing paddling at the end of the run is the highest expression of pre-sesh stoke. Where anyone who were to witness would simply say "that dude is stoked!!"

 

Iam in the same boat....I got back into it last summer and was severely stoked...now the last week or so, it has vanished...my surfing sucks and irritated as hell. Last 4x out and I look like an idiot and want to bash my boards against my truck...yesterday was head high and perfect and I felt like I was out for the first time...selling my boards on craigslist. Going to try something else...iam sure it's not the boards but me, but my stoke has greatly diminished. Time for a change to rekindle that feeling...went out this morning on another board...felt like garbage yet again.

 

Some introductions are in order.

Hey Leash, meet Little Toe...Little Toe, meet Leash. Now that you're friends...Tongue, meet Sand...Sand, meet Tongue. Hope you two have a good session.

 

Hey Emass that wasn't directed at you. Just commenting on the inevitable when running to the shorebreak with board tucked under arm and leash attached.

Looked for the funny youtube clips but came up empty and gotta head home.

 

it seems like surfing isn't for everyone.some people don't get hooked like we do.i have a buddy who I been trying to get him to surf permanently but hes retarded.il take him out a few times a year and he always has a blast but afterwards he could care less.id feel safer in the water with this guy around,he has no fear,great swimmer,can take a beating,and hes a lifeguard.theres been times in early june when the water is still 60degrees and il give him my wetsuit and go out in boardshorts just to get him out.hes just a fad chaser,who likes to follow everyone but himself.he went from surfer,to auto mechanic,to bike racer,to skydiving,and now hes calling me for protein powder ,he wants to be a bodybuilder now.hes a follower but hes following the wrong things for the wrong reasons.and he doesn't drink or do drugs,which is even better.

 

iv been there before,where u go out in epic conditions,perfect waves,and all u do is phuk up.I felt like bashing my boards but knew I couldn't afford new ones.one time I came in and told some surfer id sell him my 200 dollar board for 20 bucks because I sucked and was tired of it.that was like 7 yrs ago,and I still have the board today.maybe it was meant to be lol,but surfing can be a real drag when things aren't going the way there supposed to

 

I will say tho I did meet some incredible nice cool surfers.i remember 1 time I went to Harvey cedars and the waves were epic but I was scared to go out because it was big and barreling and breaking real far out.and it was January too,so the water was cold.and it was one of those paddle outs that u have to be all in,because once u jump in ur getting pulled way out and theres no turning back.2 surfers came and coached me and gave me some inspiration and told me theyd make sure I didn't drown and paddle out with them.wish I could see those guys again.not all surfers are douches,there are some good ones who get stoked on helping out another

 

- Bart: Listen lady, I’m supposed to be in the 4th grade.

- Teacher: Sounds to me like someone’s got a case of the “s’pose’das.”

but I hear ya. expectations can be a drag

 

No worry beef curry brah. I've got the technique down. As soon as I feel the kook cord under my foot or tangled I do this one legged hop and barely break stride. It's probs the first technique I was good at hahahaha

 

funny enough dude mentioned this bu ive surfed in cleveland, and it was the dirtiest water ive ever seen. stay away from the great lakes.

 

I'm happy to say I've never lost my stoke. Been surfing 20 plus years, and really, never lost it. I surf worse now than I did 10 ears ago. I'm not progressing, I'm fighting to keep surfing small boards as age and weak conditioning set in.

I've seen it with most of my friends though. Not sure if they lost stoke, or just gave in to a more complicated life which makes it infinitely more difficult to go for a surf . I adjusted instead. Most of my sessions come after getting a very short night sleep, waking up hours before dawn so I can hit it at sunrise and still pack my day full of my obligations, but it's still worth it to me.

The only reliable surf friend I have left is a decade younger than me, and doesn't have kids yet and isn't quite as burdened as me. He still puts in the effort. The only friend my age left that still surfs, does it in earnest now, as he moved out to CA a few years back, and stopped making annual pilgrimages home.

I would be so sad if I lost my desire to surf. I've consciously let other hobbies go, hobbies that are so much more convenient than surfing, because surfing is just the best. I really can't imagine anything coming close to how much fun surfing is.

My master plan, is to get one of my 3 kids hooked on surfing. Just one, not all of them. Whichever one rises to the occasion. Then me and that one will travel. Their only ages 2, 4 and 6 right now, and their all girls, so not sure how this will work out, but that's my selfish long term plan

So the conclusion of this useless rant, don't lose your stoke. So what if your not progressing, your not competing, just have fun. Mix it up. try a hand-plane and a set of fins. That's still surfing in my opinion and tons of fun.

 

Very good point. Almost convened similar meeting the other day while jogging a few yards to the water.
Funny, the first thing I do when I pull a dumb stunt is to look around and hope no one saw it.