Thoughts on this.................

You can, just go up and over the white water. Even try and throw a little baord spin or chop hop or something in the white wash to milk a little more fun, but yeah poking the nose through the back of the wave face of a closeout == good. exiting a wave over the back and into the flat ocean, burying your nose inverted, vertically down into the water, then diving in behind it and popping up for air == recipe for disaster. What goes up, must come down. That is just a silly way to injure yourself. Especially being a pro. She knows better. Guarantee she kicked herself after that one. Thats like doing stuff like that with no leash in a crowded lineup. You know better.

 

Yeah, cause you have never hit any of the rocks in Rhode Island. Welcome to life grommet, it happens to the best. if it hasn't happened to you, it will soon

 

its soft. the rock reef at bells is covered with 'bubble wrap' kelp which pops when you walk on it.