Saw this in a different tread and it made me think ---> Quote Originally Posted by salt View Post 100 yards?! That's jetty to jetty. Congrats on your thigh-burner wave. Too bad you didn't see it All these flavors and you choose Salty? What's your minimum duration of time, cutbacks, bottom turns, barrel time, etc, on a wave to get stoke?
Had a pretty nice one this morning. I think it could depends on many things- how long I've been dry, what time of year (non-surfing season vs surfing season) temp, board ect... I guess for me it would be the conditions more so then the wave ridden- off shore and clean- sun rise- quiet- warm- no one out (or only a few ppl). Kinda like this morning.
Looks like the chica-muffin in the white bikini may have been your best ride. Why do people post so much crap on youboob? And what's with the sticking out the tongue, and the trout pouts? Confused
from the rivermouth to the boats (about 1 minute and a half if your pumping your ass off and doing speed turns) at pavones is my minimum for stoke. Nah for real tho, for me just getting salty is enough to get me stoaked. I mean **** theres days when im back at my parents house staring at the long island sound flatness and im stoaked just to watch the water. Theres just something about salt water to flood back all those memories, whether its knee high shore break in jerzy, a nice headhigh wave at a point up in newengland, a big long mushy westcoast bomb you can paint a picture with carves on like a blank tapestry, or 4-6 foot hawain grinding tubes over shallow reef. Whatever gets you salty should get you stoaked. If not, ur just doing it wrong
Depends on the situation. If its going off I need at least a few turns to feel it. On monday it was dumpy closeouts so just a second or two of racing down the line did the trick.
Rincon, California. Very very long....and it was a long long long time ago. Way before infestation into surfing of all you morons......
Was just kiddn, senor - - you're one of the few, the proud who actually post / talk surfing & only surfing. props mang
A drop in... over the shoulder pullout doesn't even count as a wave. An under the lip takeoff into a cover up, doggie door escape does, but they both take about the same amount of time. Quality, not quantity.
All I ask is that I get a few waves where I feel that given the wave/conditions and my ability (which isn't much) where I feel I did my best with what I had to work with. Seems simple enough but I feel that more often than not I leave with no stokke.
Good thread and interesting to hear some of the feedback. Here's a good question. : do you get stoked when you initially paddle out and see someone get a good wave right in front of you?? I think if we had more of that- more stoke in the water would be happening
Totally... as long as I'm in the water or on my way out. But I got depressed the other day watching a guy pull into a little barrel from my car on the drive to work.
The 2 longest rides of my life was in front of Cabinas Vista Hermosa Jaco. Stated 100 meters from "The Tree" and went way past the cabinas. The 1st time it was 3' and I could have ridden it further but was laughing too hard. 2nd time was 8' faces, and hollow. I couldn't get out of the wave. It pealed up to dry sand. I did a tuck and roll at the end in hot black sand.
Was out in Cristobal, one or two years ago? Anyway it was in OCNJ, pretty crowded lineup. I hadn't gotten into the water yet when a solid 250lbs dude was on this yellow banana looking long 10'+ board. He took a good shoulder/head sized wave from way past the jetty all the way to shore. I was stoked and jealous at the same time.
