Took off on a big wave today at my favorite surf spot on a crowded day. I usually just let the big boys take them. But, a big wave came in so I paddled through it while a bunch of guys tried to get on it. A few made it, the others got washed away. Then another one came and I paddled through it while some guys jumped on and others got washed away. Next thing you know, another big wave comes and I'm sitting right there. No one to the left of me and no one to the right. So I turn around and start paddling, a couple of guys came paddling toward me but I was already on it and on my way. I popped up, took the drop and even rode over some wind bumps. I stayed on the board and rode it all the way in. Woo-hoo!!!! I caught a big one!
Awesome. It is a great feeling, isn't it!!??!! Go for some more, when you can, and don't let the boys stop you, after all, they are stupid. Don't believe me--read the posts on this site--it is all the evidence you need!!
