not fun as i was sidelined from being able to surf today, due to a messed up shoulder. hopefully the doctor tomorrow says its not damaged and i can surf, even though i cant move it straight or move it up.
yeah it was good, but you had to find the right spots. last two days were kinda like my first cold water session of the year. definitely better than three weeks ago. i'm not so bummed that it hasn't been that great the last few weeks, because it's given me plenty of time to catch up on some work, and not be bummed about missing out.
hey its better than what i had to do. i was just called tuesday morning that my health insurance was cancelled (problem with payment or something). so my dad called them immediately and *****ed at them cause we did everything right. well they said im off insurance until nov. 4th. now imagine this. ~2 weeks of lake atlantic and then swell pops up on the forecast a week ago and i piss my pants with excitement. so now tuesday comes and im giddy with anticipation and i get a call. im like welllll i could go. then my dad says, "you are not allowed in the water until the 4th" FFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU---- i had to sit and watch and this swell came and went... from the beach. im so mad seeing waves and not being able to just suit up and jump in. i mean it sucks because im not even hurt, and may not even get hurt, which is the real stinger. and yes i know it could be worse, but still FFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUU-
Yea... the swell filled in nicely throughout the day. The morning look was disappointing, even though the buoys were reading a solid south swell. But by the afternoon, it was good chest high fun with some bigger sets.
Long Branch was really fun yesterday. I backed my truck into a pole and the forgot all about once i got in the water.I did miss some head high barrels, from what I heard It was really really good for a little while around mid day but i still got some great rides a little later and during dp session.
though it did not have much size,it was big enough and perfectly rippable enough and had enough speed to be about as good as it gets at these beaches.it's been a really long time. usually invaders visit september/october but it was so bad through colindanielleearligor here they aren't showing up and they just go clog up the name spots and i was alone almost lonely. when you are by yourself on a perfect swell it's really intense enjoyment like you're gonna burst
I stayed away from the crowds just a little bit down the beach and had a great session with alot of barrels
the negative reports were dead wrong for the beaches around here,and the cams weren't capturing where it was good
