i was so sore and sunburned from saturday that i didnt make it out....but i bet it was knee to waist....thinking about going now though....unemployed need a job....need to surf though too......
you should definitely go surfing before it goes flat again haha.... im going out after work around four
...just got out & I'm still real ape for this week's weak swell... Somehow, Sunday seemed twice as big as today; even if Sunday was easy waist high, today just had those more consistent & gnarlier sections & like more of those ankle high sets & onshore-as-the-new-offshore connection; must've been the full moon again...
for me now monday pm was like trying to ride oatmeal....very mushy. but damn if i didnt drop in on a 3 ft wall outside....lmao I had to grab rail coming down the face....u should see me. i make thigh high look like mavericks..lmao
im gonna try to get out today but the woman is sweating me about a job......i def need to work on gettin down the line....im sick of riding the face down and kapoot....u gotta watch alot of waves to get the right one, rather to see which one to paddle for.....
