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Discussion in 'California North' started by danolee, Sep 7, 2015.
Thanks for the suggestion. I ended up picking a new one from Jeff McCallum's rack.
Just keep the little McCallum and learn it. Riding shortboards is learning to be more intimate with the curl and the wave face. Logs are great to learn on because they will skim off in really soft parts of the wave (ie. the shoulder or way early), you don't have to know the wave as well. Shorties are meant to stay close to the curl even on take off. I say keep practicing because you are light and you need to learn to duck dive deep so you are not flailing away on the inside right in my path when I'm in position to drop in. Learn to paddle down the face and set a rail on a bottom turn and for goodness sake learn priority, don't snowball or paddle into the wave face while paddling back out or risk getting punched in the face by that angry carpenter.
I guess, I understand about the half of your advices for now. I am going to bring my 5'10 to Korea and ride it there. I will keep trying. Thanks!