TS or Hurricane Cristobal?

this should be an exciting one but hopefully the wind doesn't make it suck. Our bars are in really nice shape to hold the potential size.

 

Bro I hear all that. Surfed 23s waves in SoCal I think it was back in January. It was certainly different. I've only been in this game a few seasons but I've seen every swell that's come this way on the EC in that time whether it be a Nor'easter or what have you and 15s closes out here from what I've seen. I'm sure wind has much to go with it too, so I'd love to see 15s with 3mph winds here. The BBs here vs out there are far different in bathymetry and topography aren't they?

Experts please chime in.

 

15 seconds on this coast for beach breaks will all but close out except for the short barrel and shoulder hoppin. Luckily this swell will only have a 15 second period for a short duration so it may not make a huge difference, regardless it should be fun here!

Im kind of surprised that this cane is even going to produce a 15 sec period but we shall see.

 

I didn't even check the swell period,im seeing 6-8ft on most of the sites,around 4-6 at 6pm with offshore wind around 6pm right when I get out of work.dont know how the long period is going to hold,regardless im out there

 

Spicoli is correct, because the wave is such long period it feels the bottom sooner than wind swell. When this happens the wave refracts to the shape of shoreline and because we have that darn thing called a continental shelf and gently sloping bathymetry, it gives long period swells time to wall up.

Here is a link describing the relationship between wave height and period and celerity (wave speed). It also explains mechanisms like refraction, reflection, and diffraction.

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/engineering/hydraulics/pubs/07096/4.cfm

 

There are spots that will hold it down here, not every spot, but several, when winds switch it'll be pretty

 

So how do you think this will compare to last Wednesday?

 

Its been a little frustrating down in the Outer Banks. Persistent NorthEast winds blowing hard for the fifth day in a row. The south side has been fun at times but can only imagine how good it would be if the wind would lay down. Hopefully it will tomorrow.

 

Beach breaks just can't handle anything really over 12 seconds on the east coast. You can still go surf and you will feel the juice the wave quality will just suck. Some people just like saying they surfed a hurricane swell by dropping in and then getting pummeled. That's not too much fun to me. I like doing turns and getting barreled. The swells in the winter are much better in my opinion. Hurricane swells are fun in the 11s range.

 

Word. 9-11s today, so should be perfect based on what everyone is saying.

 

Nice link. Thanks.

 

Wind turned offshore this morning. Light, WSW. Swell still 4.1 @ 10 seconds. Not all that big out. Looks chest to head, but all cleaned up. Not a cloud in the sky, glass out there. Should be fun here in a little bit. Gonna have to hit it as the tide is falling in a couple hours, but it looks plenty fun out there. Good luck to everyone. I am sure the swell is starting to show up in Delmarva etc.

 

Solid read. Some dense equations in there, but filled with good knowledge.

Also, squirming in the cube today, ready to go...

 

Couldnt have said this any better. Thats my perspective from a long time NJ surfer. Most of my memorable days here were in the 10-11s period.

I will add, sometimes it pays to look at all the swell data, not just the doninant one. Some breaks wont show any long period swell, and can work as a filter, so if you have two swells running, one long period and one short, you can sometimes find a fun wave in relatively close proximity to spots that are big and closed out

 

Remember SI rule #1) There is no such thing as a close out, you are just not surfing fast enough.

 

filling in nice in so jersey...just got back from a low ag high fun sesh....more coming.

 

Looks perfect to me right now. Glad that mush is gone. I am hoping to surf until dark this evening.

 

Yeah, I'm in Corolla and I've been here since Sunday. The winds are relentless. Hopefully it will be good Thursday am.

 

Maybe wait til the tide starts coming back up. Just got back. It was good, but the tide was dropping and it went from chest+ to waist high in a matter of an hour. There is still energy out there, but I would for sure wait for the tide push unless you want to log it for a bit. Wind also switched on me mid session. Went from light offshore to side/onshore. Worth it for sure, but I blew the AM tide push because I had a meeting, but looking forward for the evening. I am hoping that Cristobal sticks around for a nice, goodbye AM cleanup session, but I have a sinking feeling that there won't be much left tomorrow, despite what the forecast said. Maybe it was all the tide, but it sure felt like the surf from this one is on it's way in the wrong direction now.

 

i am thinking the 4 p.m to 8 p.m tide change might be all it has left here in S.C...we will see