That's nuts, hadn't heard that yet. Assuming the worst was done that would be pretty gnarly to watch go in and out in real time. But wouldn't it be full of debris? Probably not so fun.
Agreed, on all counts, fellers...it just blew my mind that the energy was able to reform, so quickly at that, after going over the breakwall. Straight up otherworldly imo. And to top it off, barring the fact that it's a tsunami, so close to physical structures, the damn thing peeled and looked ridable. Glad you enjoyed. MIS I thought the same when I first saw the vid, but I think they were posts of some sort...unless they were Samurai who just said F it.
Maybe one of the engineers can chime in on this. Would you ever leave open gaps or big tunnels at the bottom of a breakwater to help dissipate the wave energy so you wouldn't have to build a structure that would need to withstand the full energy of the waves that are hitting it?
The wavelength doesn't stay the same though ... both the wavelength and speed of the wave are increasing, hence the longer period.