Understanding the Swell

Discussion in 'Mid Atlantic' started by NJSwell, Oct 30, 2010.

  1. NJSwell

    NJSwell Well-Known Member

    232
    Aug 26, 2010
    Hey guys, I've been on a surfboard for about a year now (body-boarding for 5), and I just wanted to get some more knowledge of what I'm surfing.

    Can anyone describe what winds (direction, speed, etc) form what types of waves? Also, how does location play a role in the types of waves/breaks are down the shore? (LBI, NJ specifically).

    I feel like it's necessary to get a better grasp of how waves form, and I think it's that time for me lol
     
  2. njsurfer42

    njsurfer42 Well-Known Member

    Nov 9, 2009
    honestly, your best bet is to find a copy of "waves & beaches" by willard bascom. it's a great book, very enlightening as to the creation, life, & death of the waves we ride & their effects on the sands upon which we live.
    i re-read it at least once a year to refresh my memory.
     

  3. NJSwell

    NJSwell Well-Known Member

    232
    Aug 26, 2010
    The book is pretty expensive as I've seen on Amazon, over $30-40 used
     
  4. AVON RIDER

    AVON RIDER Member

    15
    Jul 31, 2010
    N.J.,

    The end product for the most part is Wind Direction,Wave Height and the Bottom Contour.
    Which will change because of the Wind Direction,Wave Hight and Bottom Contour from the day before.
    Then everything will change relative to where you are, based on the above...... pretty much everyday.
    Simple and easy.

    This should help, as it deals with the above. Kinda sorta.
    Nothing worth doing is easy.
    http://lighthouse.tamucc.edu/Waves/CoastalErosion. CLICK ON WAVES
    .....Rob
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2010
  5. NJSwell

    NJSwell Well-Known Member

    232
    Aug 26, 2010
    Thank you Avon, I will read into this thoroughly