High tide at Sunzal in ES is a lot of yards. You're not fighting through breaking waves but it's long. A secret spot in Maine I hit up on a certain day in October was a half-mile paddle out because of access issues.
That sounds like a banner day. Not just a day you flew your surfing banner in the sand, which we hope you did, but a championship day you won't soon forget. What's this about sadness though?
The only sad part about today is when I was coming in from my last session and decided to go on this waist highish shore break and just ditched my board, went over the falls, right onto my knee. What a degrading moment.
Schitt happens, brah. Especially when you charge freely. Any hater on the beach has nothing to say to you as they didn't paddle out in a damn thing.
Brah we learn far more from our losses. If you keep going undefeated, it's time to get nervous because you've stopped progressing and adapting as nothing's causing you to do so.
oh man im up here and have been surfing Frisco and hat national seashore. ect there was some pretty big waves today.
i was out today but south of rodanthe, i didnt care to much for the paddle.. made it outside twice and didnt feel like doing it again ha.
saturdays surf northern Monmouth county nj was fun . Head to over head sets , clean long barrels ,lite off shore winds and oddly enough crowded ... paddled out at about 8 am 11 degree air and within an hour there were 20 guys out . I normally don't like surfing with that many people ..but you gotta give kudos to anyone who had the stones to brave the cold .