want to start longboarding

There are many things you wanna think about when getting a log ( not all logs are created equal). this you wanna conider besides length are Rail weather you want a 50/50 rail or a something a little pinched. Noes and tail with can determin if a board will be a good nose rider or have poor and good turning ability. Also you wanna consider Rockers, and if you want a stepdeck or or spooned nose.

If you are really unsure I would get a tri fine log that has removeable side fins or get a single fin that has a fin box instead of a glassed fine.

A good all around log can range from 9'2 to 9'4 with either a 50/50 or a 60/40 rail , with a singe fin box and a square tail with a bit of belly rocker can be a very versitle longboard

 

I have a Patagonia R4, a solid Xcel 3/2, a piece o' crap spring suit, and a 1 Xcel mil hoodie for underneath the 3/2 when necessary. I got the R4 primarily because I wanted a winter suit I'd be able to surf in, in the winter, on Long Island when I went to visit my NYC friends, and I couldn't afford several different high end wetsuits. (I also like the lifetime warranty.) I've been enjoying its warmth down OC/VB, but it's definitely overkill. I've even been surfing with the hood down. I've also surfed with it in the Bay Area, where the water is chilly, but not like here, and it was REALLY overkill there. That said, if you're interested in getting a Patagonia suit, you'll notice that the price differences aren't actually all that big between the different thicknesses of suits.

All that said, I'd be a little skeptical about an R3 lasting you through the winter in NJ. But I get cold. If you are hardier, then it could be ok. When I talked with a bunch of New York surfers about Patagonia suits, when I was trying to figure out which suit to get, they all swore by the R4 for winters up there. I'd imagine Jersey is about the same.

 

Glide is what longboarding is all about. Its making it through the flat sections until the wave reforms without loosing all your momentum.
Where short boarding is about tearing it up on the face of the wave longboarding is about the ride, hot dogging, and nose riding (although there are some longboarders who can tear it up).

 

Also - Don't buy an epoxy board if you want glide !!! Traditional heavy glass boards are your best bet for endless rides on small to medium size waves. Just google "Joel Tudor" and watch some you tube videos. There are some great examples of nose riding and glide. A lot of Rocker does not premote glide. Heavy flat rockered logs are not that great on bigger steeper days unless you know how to drop in and turn real quick. Pearling is not fun on a big day.

 

Glide is you don't go rail-to-rail or rail-to-tail down the wave -- however you have 2-3x surface of the board meeting the water then with a shortboard - so you harness the wave momentum in a less sort of dramatic but smoother looking way

 

if you want a traditional shaped longboard you want something with a 50/50 (nice round) rail and 9'4 to 9'6 range something with some weight to it. Glide is all about flow and letting the board work with the wave but you are in control. Slow Smooth turns , Cross steping , Tail Stalls and Noserides are all what longboarding is all about . I see guys tear it up on a HP log and it just dont look right to me . Its like trying to put a square peg in a round whole.

 

You got it. And I agree with Matt on rail shape. To add to that, look for a wider design (at least 23"), all the way up through the nose... a wide, round nose (at least 18", not the pointy variety) with some concave under the nose will help you learn to noseride faster. And the width will help add some stability for learning how to walk. Either a flat or slightly bellied behind the nose concave (convex rail to rail), a square tail with some added tail rocker... a bit of kick in the last foot or so...at least a 9" fin with plenty of tip, and round, soft (or even upturned) rails through the tail are typical noserider features.

Didn't dave say he had a used Robert August WIR for sale? That's a good board to start.

 

Exactly. Fins on a noserider can also make a huge difference. Depending on the board I like a traditional pivot fin or a hatchet works nice too.
Also, Check around for used boards. Daves board sounds like a great deal. I just saw a used Takayama Model T at Heritage OC 9.4 or 9.6 for 625.00.