Wave selection and timing

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by MrBigglesworth, Sep 23, 2018.

  1. DosXX

    DosXX Well-Known Member

    Mar 2, 2013
    Good thread, good discussion.
    ...I may cut back on the pre-sesh caffeine as well.
    Mr.Belmar and MrBigglesworth like this.
  2. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Skip the caffeine and instead take a couple puffs of herb. If you get too high, just wait 30 minutes to an hour an you’ll start to come down and you’ll be nice and calm and will be able to go into chill mode easier when you get slammed by a wave and held down. It doesn’t take my energy away either, like alcohol does.

    When hung over I’m always sluggish compared to just the herb. In fact, Mary J is also good for things like arthritis and inflammation, so your whole body should feel a little better leaving your muscles relaxed and require less oxygen making it more likely to conserve energy.

    It’s science.

  3. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
  4. Rob Gnarley

    Rob Gnarley Well-Known Member

    Mar 27, 2012
    Having a spot that dialed in must be sweet. Sounds like that spot has rocks that don't shift around a lot. In the Delmarva the sand is shifting constantly
    MrBigglesworth likes this.
  5. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    It’s funny but it’s just a huge flat beach with hard bottom underneath. The sand shifts around but only changes where the breaks form and at what tides. It’s spoiled me spot wise but it’s great when it’s working
  6. cepriano

    cepriano Well-Known Member

    Apr 20, 2012
    id say the best experience u can get it is just going out and taking waves on the head.as stupid as that may sound,the thing that holds most of us back is failure,gettin worked..when u learn to somewhat enjoy a beating,then ur confidence soars and ur not afraid to wipe out and u will take off on anything,and that's how ppl get the wave of the day.just one of those freakish waves that closes out but stays open lol.

    paddlin closeouts is good practice,helps u with ur late takeoffs,timing,etc.just remember,only surf when a lifeguard is present
  7. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Set waves will come as soon as you start peeing, especially if you have been holding it for a while.
    McLovin, mattinvb, NJsurfer30 and 2 others like this.
  8. heaps of Meh

    heaps of Meh Active Member

    Jul 6, 2012
    first wave of the set- puts you in position to get licked by rest of set but...
    1) will hit the bar or reef JUST RIGHT as it wont have other waves washing on it
    2) wont have a wreck of bodies you have to dodge from kooks who take subsequent waves
  9. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    When its waist to chest and lined up and not throwing I like to slalom it makes it more fun. Second wave works for me, first wave sucks some water out so second wave is steeper. On little days under belly high first wave is usually best.

    On OH days I like to wait for the one that calls out my name.

    nopantsLance likes this.
  10. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    The way it works is usually the first and second wave pile up in shallows and then all that water comes flowing back towards the third wave making it get steep farther out. That’s where the patience thing will work here: it’s always the second or third wave unless it’s pumping - then it’s the second third fourth and fifth.. the ones usually slamminig my head in after I jump for the first or second one that looks mean but never breaks, carries you in 50’ and rolls under - leaving you right in the break water I watch from ground zero, your screw up.

    But I still love it. Especially when you catch the best wave of a set when I did have some patience and then it’s ride city. That drop and turn rush and then the stoke when you see it’s all capital A face in your direction. And no closeout in site.
    sisurfdogg likes this.

    SCOB3YVILLE Well-Known Member

    Nov 16, 2016
    always take two bong rips before you paddle out
  12. Towelie

    Towelie Well-Known Member

    Nov 27, 2014
    Go for every wave, every time.
    MrBigglesworth and Notaseal like this.
  13. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    Been insanely good at the break lately and still struggling to bump up wavebcount - but I figured out at least part of the issue: i get too psyched up in bigger waves... besides being a hack lol
    And the other issue is wave speed. When they get tall and long period here they get faster. It’s subtle but I spent some time watching the break and a lot of guys were having same issue, regardless of bort or skill levels. And the only cheat is to go in late but they literally break in a 2 count from the point that their catchable so if your not on your chops your either eating it, getting closed out or riding down the face and turning into the foam. The other thing I see is the shoulder is constantly Changing location so you need to move around, between wind drift and rip. But I’m happy to get the time in water because everyday has been alittle better and the rides are epic when you do it right.’
    Say it again - I LOVE this
  14. Jessie Armbuster

    Jessie Armbuster New Member

    Aug 29, 2018
    Wave selection is the worst mind game ever. You get too picky, and you end the day with a low wave total. You get too greedy, and you end the day with pains, fatigue, and not much accomplished. What helps me is before I go out to the lineup, I have already told myself the goal for the day... whether its to simply have fun (whatever happens happens), or to get a good workout (go them all and build up your cardio), or to fine tune a technique (then, yes be very picky and allow yourself plenty of rest and oxygen between waves). If I have a game plan, then I don't have to make these micro decisions so often between waves.

    As far as wave sets, karma will always win! If you go for the first... the 2nd wave is going to be better. If you had taken the 2nd, you'd be looking up at the 3rd wave in the set and wondering if that was the one you should have dropped in on. It's endless! The mental workings of the etiquette, the physics of the environment, and our desire to improve and yet have fun are all at odds.
  15. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    Well said. And it’s exactly what plagued me as well. My spiritual guru told me they do little pep talks with themselves if they get off into a bad session - set a goal and whatever it is focus on it. It’s funny but the last part of Sunday I forced myself to get out on the Roberts, even though I knew I’d have a rough time - but I set that in my head early and focused on the practice aspect - and ended up getting some really good insight and a great workout. Still couldn’t get waves right though hahaha
  16. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Mr. B welcome back from time out!

    Dude seriously though, your doing great. You havnt been surfing long, your older with bionic hips, and just made a jump down to a SB....i think i told you this before but most guys in your situation wouldn't even think about going to a SB. Your not having instant success, which is expected. But your making major improvements. Good on you man. It's quite admirable.

    Alot of this stuff is experience. Diffrent waves, tides, swell directions, swell periods, so on and so forth. You're putting in the work and making big strides. It'll come. But while on the topic I'll say this. Big long period swells get alot of hype. They CAN be amazing. But they can also be a complete bust. Especially down by me. Alot of times it can be a big close out with a shoulder. Of course if it's makeable from the peak that's where you want to be. But if it's big close outs there is no shame in having the makeable shoulders. Why get closed out on constantly? Always depends on the day. But quality always beats quantity in my opinion. I get quite picky when it's big. If im not feeling good about it im not going. You just can't be tooooo picky and sit idol.

    Example. Sometimes when it's big I'll paddle for 3 or 4 waves and pull out of every one thinking it looks like a closeout as it begins to peak. Just to watch every one peeeeeeel. I'll make a mental note of that. If it looks like a closeout at the last second, go anyway, there peeling. Then I'll start getting some good ones. Obviously if they are actually closing out.... don't go
    MrBigglesworth likes this.
  17. cepriano

    cepriano Well-Known Member

    Apr 20, 2012
    as Christian fletcher once said,if u came out the barrel u weren't deep enough
    nopantsLance, JayD and MrBigglesworth like this.
  18. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    Great to be back BassBro, thanks!

    In short, thank you for the encouragement and the reality checks... sometimes I forget I’m half titanium lol. And oldish.
    I’m able to put the work in and know that the payoff is sweet because it’s gotten me a world away from the beginnings, so I just keep putting info like this stuff to work either in the actual surfing or the mental crap that follows.
  19. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Angled take offs when it is steep and fast. You barely even bottom turn.
    CaptJAQ and MrBigglesworth like this.
  20. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    You know thats been said several times and I actually payed attention in the lineup on Sunday to a younger guy from down around the cape, riding his own shaped bort, and he was angling even before he caught the wave - with his head. I often think about that but then get wrapped up in just catching the dam wave to begin with, and then it’s trying to remember to get turning as soon as your up. Much less so with LB. if I’m in a good headspace, I’m planning where I gonna go before I get there and I subconsciously have already angled my body and my bort. Huge point.