Wave selection and timing

Bass and Jay... I think I know what you're saying. I also know people disagree with me on this and I debate it all the time. It has to do with your point regarding wave variability.

There's a totally different set of variables when you're taking off under the lip, and when you're "paddling for a wave" under typical conditions. If you're talking about taking off so late you really don't even need to paddle more than a stroke or two, yea... weight forward helps engage the rail as soon as possible. That makes sense. You're board is never horizontal. It's near vertical before you even get to your feet.

If you're just paddling trying to catch a wave, your board is pretty much horizontal through your takeoff, and only goes off plane (angled downward) after you've gotten to your feet and are making the drop. This is when efficiency matters, and weight forward only bogs your board, making you have to paddle harder. This is where a lot of people disagree with me, but even if you look at that video you'll see my point.

 

Something I forgot to mention, when actually paddling for a wave, i’ll use the above technique when navigating and setting up for a wave but as that wave approaches I’m going to slowly increase my paddling speed and when it’s take off time I will give it a few explosive paddles right when the wave is on me. Lastly, right when you think you have caught the wave, give it another stroke just to make sure. Too many people stop paddling too early only to miss the wave they could have caught if they just didn’t give up so early.

 

I think we're on the same page, just thinking of diffrent circumstances. Let's take your last paragraph. Weight forward can bog and create drag for sure. But it all depends. Take that video and a SB for example. Depending on your size and board size, your nose may very well be pointed up slightly with the tail sitting deeper in the water. Maybe I'm using the term weight forward wrong but in that scenario it will make your board horizontal, and create less drag, and do exactly what your saying about planning.

Like i said i think we're on the same page. We're just invisoining diffrent scenarios in our minds. Depending on my board, the wave, and how i want to surf the wave, I'll sometimes move back on my board so I'm on the tail more. If i do this, again depending on the board it can take the board off that plane. Lifting the legs and pushing the chest downward gets it back on that plane.

 

I don’t disagree with your premise. Actually makes total sense. The video illustrates him putting his head down and the kicking/lift theory does seem to warrant a “weight forward” discussion

I guess in theory you are still on plane.

Also to your point above, i mentioned being on plane until your not, it just seems natural to “heave” your weight forward to get over the ledge. Maybe that natural tendency is actually creating drag.

 

If it's pitching and I'm under the lip and it's not breaking real fast, I still employ the rocking chair takeoff - just lean back and sink your board, when water displacement gives you an upward motion lean forward and pop up. Only works in medium surf, if it's sucking water up the face you'll get sucked up with the lip and pitched into space lol. But it works good in chest to head high ramps and bowls when there is a bit of juice. One of these fucking days...

 

“Smaller waves” (under 5ft) think of it as a playground. Go out there and have some fun experimenting with waves. The thing I wished someone told me when I started getting better at surfing is just because it looks like its gonna close out doesn’t mean it will. I used to paddle so hard for waves then pull out thinking “oh i was too deep” or “close out” but really I was letting the best waves slip by me. So where im getting at here is go out there on an average day and start taking off later or behind the peak and gettin to your feet quicker. If it looks like its gonna shack, pull in. Ride that thing out like you’re a bull rider or some s***!!

As for bigger days (15ft Belmar). What i do when its been a while since a decent surf. I’ll find a deep breaking spot Where the waves just crumble. Then when the tide starts getting low and those things start rifling down the sand you’ll have your mind in the right place to maximize your session.

If you run out of juice fast and those arms get tired easily, work out, but no one wants to hear that so ill stop there.

Best o luck
-Dune

 

So the last time I was out a guy was giving his girlfriend - they were both on LBs - instructions on how to triangulate the peak, and to sit on the shoulder just a bit inside and if the guy on the peak ate it, which was happening with regularity, how to jump on the wave. I thought it was kinda advanced for her, she was a bit too hesitant for this approach. I've never articulated this to anyone, but I do it alot at crowded spots.

 

Yeah that's an experience you just learn thing i think. How to paddle for it without really going for it, until it's time to go for it and you take only another paddle or two.

 

You could have been situated too far back to begin with (whilst paddling). I see many beginners paddling way too far back on their board. you may actually be finding the properre spot....which is progress.

 

If someone already posted this one, I apologize. It's one of my favorites.
My pop-up resembles the unfolding of a rusty ironing board.

Maybe next lifetime I am this agile...
Biggsy, what say you regarding this vid?

'How the World's Best Surfers Pop Up'

 

Probably one of my favorite threads. It really makes me rethink timing. I have been working on getting really deep on take off thus making the timing more critical and board selection very important on what the conditions are like for the day.

Don't misunderstand , I'm not working on something everyday . Most of the time i tell myself to focus on one aspect of my game while really just being in the moment and surfing.

 

While you are “looking around”, focus on the angle of your drop relative to what the wave is doing.