Wave Selection

Learn from others mistakes, or learn the hard way so you don't forget. It's hard to completely avoid making a bad decision at a new break- sometimes you just have to make sure you don't do it again. Hopefully you'e in shape enough to make the mistake and face repercussions, otherwise, you shouldn't be out at all.

 

I have not managed to avoid poor wave selection... I am getting better... I still get impatient and sometimes paddle for the first wave in a set or turn and burn, miss, and get caught inside and take the rest of the set on the head...
I at least have gotten better at not paddling for monster close-outs.
When you first start surfing, be honest now, that big black line on the horizon is the easiest wave to see...

 

I do a great job on wave selection all the time and I pick the best waves as well.

 

Selecting waves is like selecting a girl....nice shape, nice boobies, etc.

 

seen the first waves of the sets on beachies in florida that seem to always be the best with long period swell because the bombs are just going to closeout a lot of times. but the problem with taking the first wave is 2 thing...sometimes i just want to keep the wave going and ride in to the inside and then gotta paddle back out through waves. its never nice to catch the first wave of a set then look back and see monsters coming at you while you paddle back.

 

btw who loves the feeling when youre aboot to get smash by a macking wave then get held under for 20sec or more and wreaked.

 

If I just had a good ride and I'm paddling back out, It's sometimes pretty cool. If I see it coming and I'm prepaired and it's warm... Sometimes I dig that too. When it's cold and your tired and you didn't see it coming, hmmmm.. not so much.

 

In general, in a 4 to 5 wave set, which is what I usually see, I like the next to last wave for the following reasons:
1. The aforementioned problem of getting caught inside and drilled by the following waves (if you take the first wave) is reduced. However, you do have to deal with the "disabled motorists" who are inside because they didn't make the first waves.
2. It seems that wave 3 or 4 are usually the best (more power). I'm not sure if this is due to a simplified application of "wave interference" (propagation), and thus the "constructive interference" is peak , or that the first waves move a lot of water inside so that you get a little more peak (jack).

I think the two most important factors for wave selection are observation and experience. It pays dividends to watch a few sets before paddling out, and even taking time to see what is going on before charging (unless of course, you paddle out and you get a perfect wave and you are in position "A" (it does happen), and you must take it). It is also good to take mental notes when you are paddling back out.

Also, note that sometimes the biggest waves are not the best, as they can "overdrive" (close out) or get "sectiony". Another thing I do is look down the beach at other peaks, and compare the breaking to the your peak, which can give some idea of the timing. One other thing to look for: you may have 2 different swells coming in at different angles, so you might notice when they coincide (constructively interfere) and be alert as this can create a slightly different wave or bowl section. I've been out on a day where the wave (peak) was predominately a left, and I was surfing with a bunch of goofy footers, but every now and then, I noticed that a perfect right would come in (which the other dudes weren't looking for), so I was ready for it.

So, I think it is all about paying attention (observing), and "time in the water" experience.

 

Well put

 

Thanks. I have found that wave selection and positioning are critical to progressing.

 

I have my days, some good, some not so good

 

I got one of the best double ups of my life this winter all the time and it was great as well.

 

Which wave was it? That left of the main peak that breaks like every 10 waves and you wonder why no ones on it.

 

Iindee........