wave slavery

I recommend you do what U2B suggested.

 

i recently blew off a first date because there were some waves, hadn't been any around in two weeks prior. i thought it was legit excuse, still seeing the chick

 

Absolutely love your fugging dedication! When you got the bug you got the bug! Cheers to you bro!

 

Also, left for C.R. On my daughters birthday! She turned 12 and still gives me shatt! She and the wife got over it, GOT SURF?

 

I jeopardized my career and marriage with relocating from the Tampa Bay area to Melbourne almost 2 years ago. It was a life long dream of mine ever since I caught my first wave to live here. When the opportunity was finally there (took about 20 years), it took a lot of convincing and I had to make some "moves" in order for it to work out the way that it has, but it turned out better than expected.

It wasn't easy though, it was touch and go for a little bit there. Wife didn't understand it, job didn't like it. But eventually I closed the deal and we're better off for it, my wife especially. She had no idea she would be happier here than she was there, now she hates where we left and would never go back.

It's hard to conceptualize everything I went through to get here in one little post, but let me just say this, I could easily be divorced, unemployed, and still living in land, but I'm not, thank Jebus! I just had to believe in my dream and stand firm with no wavering and eventually everybody else fell into line. I had to take a hard line or it wouldn't have happened.

Those who may recall, I was driving to the East Coast every single weekend and to the Gulf during the week for years until I finally had enough of it. It was a long haul, what a journey it's been. Now, I'm spoiled and have everything I want in life, but the ocean still dictates and I obey.

 

A while back, I bought V3 from Mrcoop. I told my girlfriend I was just gonna grab the board and head home. HA HA, nope, I met NickM (aka MFCondor) at IRI for some nice 4 to 6 foot gold! I only surfed for about 45 minutes, but she was a little pissed! lol It was worth is, that board is magic!

 

Priorities are what they are for everyone... and can change over time. I don't get caught up in the slippery slope of putting waves before everything else... as romantic an idea as it is. I'm not sure anyone's fully satisfied by their surfing life... don't we always want more, no matter how good we have it? The same with the... "if it was only one foot bigger" mentality. It doesn't matter if it's 3' or 8'... you could always think of something to make it better... a little more offshore... a little more hollow... a little longer line... it never ends.

What we're willing to give up for waves is a dangerous game in the same way. For me, it's family first, always. That translates into sacrifices made for work, travel, holidays... all to be able to go home and take care of my family. Waves will NEVER get in the way of that for me.

Waves were here before us, and will be here long after we're gone. There's always another day of surfing ahead.

 

SellOut

 

I dont feel so alone now brotha.

 

LOL! Seriously... I couldn't live with myself it I did. That unhappiness would be worse than the unhappiness of missing waves. I can live with that.

 

I think I've made a ton of sacrifices to surf in the past year, but I haven't let it affect other parts of my life too much. Maybe more than I could have, but it's my passion and makes me content. I'm still chasing many other goals in my life that have nothing to do with surf.

I live 35-40 minutes away from my closest break, a land locked son of a gun in the eyes of some, and have surfed between 2-4 times a week every week for the last year. I have hardly missed a clean shoulder high+ swell in over a year. This has put tons of mileage on my car, caused me to be exhausted, have had to circumvent obligations, etc., etc. But, I know my limits and try to find that balance in my life. Like I said, I still have other goals in my life and I have a continued yearning for advancement in those areas.

Everyone is going to have their own perspective on this. But, I can certainly appreciate the wisdom that lbcrew puts out there. To each their own. It's all what you make of it and how you want to make it.

On another note, Cabo is 4.5 days out and clean head to overhead swells are on the horizon

 

Go with your gut Trev.

Right now, surfing is your highest personal priority. Nothing wrong with that. If you go your entire life chasing waves instead of the almighty dollar, what's most important is that you're happy and you lived life on your terms.

If those priorities change like they often do when people get on the wrong side of 30, then you'll have few if any regerts lol

Or if you're one of those charmed people, you will have your cake and eat it too, meaning you won't change a thing and everything will eventually fall in your lap.

On your terms.

 

Trev, keep searching, make something happen, look for opportunities that fit your lifestyle
I didnt wait/compromise/give up and got a job that allows me to support a family and surf a lot for a guy working 40 hours a week

if you dont want a family you will have even more surf time

that doesnt pay off at 60 though, but whatevs

 

Damn right Kid, I don't recall how old Trev is but probably much younger than you and I. I had the same froth in my step until I evolved (I guess that is what happened). From shore pound as a grom>being able to drive to the beach (or get a ride before DL)>to young adulthood,,,,no worries and surf as much as possible, travel, surf surf surf>now here I am 44 and still frothing but with some strings attached. Career/Family (totally agree with LB on this) etc have created an environment where surfing can't be (at least for me) what it was. But, I do have dreams of evolving once again in to and older frother with less responsibilities and more me time that will allow for "drop everyting" and go (ala Barry but not in NH)! It's funny though. Sometimes, when the surf is good EC standards...I find myself finding a way to make it out, so it's all good. I would not go back and change it....if you have the desire to always be on it and you can pull it off, do it! The downside is the probable results of poor decision making that could have lasting and longer term effects on your overall life...everyone needs to make that decision for themselves and live with it. I did, which required a pull back (moved back to EC) and concentrate on the longer term. Balance at this point...

 

Isn't talking about slavery racism?.....should we be talking like this??
Is somebody from gummint listening?? Can weez git in trouble?
Is weez racist??

 

My white wife is the descendant of slaves
lousy ottoman empire taking over Chios

 

Then fvcking do it. If you don't, you may regret it forever.
But careful in Indo going "full surf bum"--their prisons suck.