oh my god i ate so much sh*t today.... was gung-ho for about 30 mins and then I totally pooped out. lazy popups, incomplete paddling = nose dives galore. if I don't surf at least once a week, I lose alot of stamina. I'm thinking about actually learning to swim like freestyle with the breathing and all so I can train. amazing waves today, some of the biggest ones I've ever been up close and personal with.