yesterday, i was surfing next to mercers and it was REALLY crowded, but i decided to stay because there was a fun little right. next thing i know a bomb comes thru, i paddled, caught it, and was geting prolly the nicest barrel of the weekend. when i see a bic come thro the wall of the barrel, hitting me in the foot. i went to the doctor this morning and they said that my foot and ankle was spained and that i mite not b able to surf in the clean water. point being..... if you do not knnow how to surf and have itticute, dont surf in the middle of 50 or so people becuz obviosly, some one can get hurt.
Man, that must really suck... I remember seeing one video (I don't remember where) when this guy was in a nice big barrel, and a surfboard literally shot out the face of the wave in front of him and he ate that board (but he still stayed on, but that must've hurt!) For the inexperienced: While paddling out!!! 1. Be aware of you surroundings 2. If there's a wave with someone on it, you can do A) paddle towards the whitewater and take the hit of the wave and NOT the surfer, or B) paddle across the unbroken face/shoulder BUT YOU MUST SPRINT PADDLE AND BE COMPLETELY SURE THAT YOU WONT SCREW UP SOMEONE'S RIDE [LAST RESORT] or C) if unsure, just sit and wait inside (not too long) 3. While in the lineup, don't drop in, always make sure you're the only person on the wave or you have priority. If in doubt, don't go out. I doubt that people no here will need this info, but you never know...
yeah man that must really suck. i remember last year when i about tore my ankle that i couldnt surf for like 3 weeks but from what the docs said i was very close to about tearing it which would of put me out even more, and now im stil tyring to get everything i learned vefore back dow. but luckily when that happened it was during a flat spell.
