Welcome to Paradise now go to hell

i feel bad for the real Hawaiians with the surf media frenzy they put up with during their winter.imagine the eastcoast turned into the new surf destination and everyone shows up in fall as the good swells come.u show up at ur normal uncrowded break to see 200 people in the sand,another 200 in the water from all over the world,jetskis buzzing around,helicopters,drones,trains planes and automobiles.then when the waves stop they leave ur spot and leave all their trash.we usually deal with that every summer,but imagine if all that beach traffic were out of state surfers only looking to get a cover shot at ur local spot.id get hostile too.

 

there are some breaks and some islands that really do keep off radar. north shore is somewhat game over except for a few spots. at some spots, guys with cameras get hassled and told to leave and they do. if not they just get dropped in on and hassled verbally and cant get a wave till they ditch the go pro. they are welcome to come back out without it, I have seen this happen, but was a silent observer. its nice to surf to surf, dont need to document every little thing, so I kinda agree with it. keeping cameras away keeps the pros/whores out and only people who surf to surf, surf those spots. I dont ever see 200 guys, I surfed gas chambers with 6-10 people today, rights and lefts 4 feet or so (bit overhead), weekday at 1030, for 2 hours not bad. had a 5'10 quad didnt need to have a big board to win some paddle battle nonsense.

localism is a bit of a neanderthal tactic, but without some semblance of order/respect, waves gets over-run with kooks who dangerously ignore etiquette , never mind these guys are enforcers, they dont pick fights so much as call BS.....without the Volcom house whistle, what would pipe be like?

cue form members crying foul and deriding 'owning the ocean', but sometimes you dont get to eat at the big boy table for the feast, just the way it is, so go sit on the ironing board for thanksgiving and like it, I do.

 

well said Gaff