and i used to be obsessed with srufing, I would want to surf everyday and watch surfing videos all night, but the grind of life gets in teh way, and I just have no urge to sruf anymore.
Interesting story: I grew up playing Little League and Pony League baseball as well as Pop Warner football with a neighborhood kid. I was OK at it, but this kid was the shizzle. His dad had a crewcut flattop, his mom was like I Love Lucy and this kid was the star pitcher, catcher, shortstop and QB...I mean, he had it ALL. His best talents were at catcher and QB. He was Head And Shoulders above everybody else, and he ALWAYS won. Fast forward to high school: Kid continued to see unreal success, especially as the school's QB. He (along with a few other kids I grew up with, and were subsequently drafted into pro football) wound up winning the State Championship in California. During this time, I quit playing team sports and started Moto X, then surfing. Along with surfing came the usual counterculture stuff...but we won't get into that. My junior year, I start seeing the Star QB rocking up into the school parking lot with surfboard racks on his car, and a "Bing" sticker in the back..."hmm, interesting" I say. Star QB starts pulling up to the popular city breaks (never saw him at Big Rock or Blacks tho). Star QB starts showing up to the high school parties and chugging beer like a champ. After graduating, some surfing budz tell me that the Star QB moved to Hawaii so he could surf more. I'm pretty blown away, this kid is getting drafted by pro teams and is being chased by big name schools for scholarships, and this guy takes off to Hawaii? But I know, that damn bug bites HARD. Fast forward several years later: Star QB's name comes up in a conversation, and I hear that he died in Hawaii from a Heroin OD. You could've knocked me over with a feather. I guess what I'm trying to say is: nobody's script is written in stone, no matter how much it appears so. Surfing can do so much to change a person's path. It has taken many good people down some horrendous paths, but it has also saved many people from the demons they hold within. So whether it's baseball, surfing or lacrosse or whatever: make your choices wisely, and enjoy what you do to the fullest.
I was just about to say that about whalerus then I saw you did first. Kidrock, kind of a bittersweet story there, but a good one. As for the "airs" I think I call BS.. If you've even done one air successfully you should be using that as your goal to get better.. It's cold out there you can't blame yourself for not being able to get better as quickly as you like. Stick with it shortboarder/whoever you are. If you don't, you'll be back
Use that for your goal. You know you can do them... Practice landings.. not many groms (around me) can even do cutbacks/snaps... Not gonna tell you how to live your life, but you can still do both surfing and baseball. Especially in the summer.
Shortboarder: FWIW, baseball is a spring and summer pastime...which, coincidentally, is usually the time that surfing sucks. Conversely, baseball is winding down during the fall...at the same time that surfing is at its best. Then, it rolls into winter, when the surf can be memorable and the crowds are their thinnest. I fully realize that many talented ballplayers (especially young ones that are honing their skills) can make the sport an "almost" year-round affair, with camps, weight training, and other skill sharpening clinics. But realistically, there is plenty of time to be split between the 2 disciplines...especially for such a young man. If you truly believe that surfing is cutting into something that can prove to be a success, then you already know the answer. Like someone else posted earlier: you don't have to be the best guy out in the water to have fun surfing. By now, you also realize that surfing is not just a pastime...it is, basically, a highly addictive drug. FWIW, I took a job over 20 years ago that I knew would provide me and my family with the success we needed to live comfortably in the future. The job took me away, by and large, from the ocean and surfing. But it was the decision that I made, and I could live with it. During that time, I was able to occasionally work or travel to continue to do what I craved. Not very much, but I savored the times that I was able to do it. 20 years later, I retired from the job with a full pension and benefits, with a little $$$ in the bank. I moved back to the coast, am currently unemployed and surf whenever it's good. And I'm loving life like I'm a kid again. You can do this, too. Only *you* can choose your path, young Shortboarder. Choose wisely.
Nice story stupid . So all along I knew you were a kook a sissy and had small jewels but now I've learned you are a broke kook a mamas boy kook a whiny lil turd and you are definitely EMASS !
well that didnt last long, I'm already back at it. Today I decided this was going to be my lsat session for a long time, went out, it was about chest high with about 5-10 mph onshores. Waves had a lot of punch too em, anyway get out there and the waves are well lined up, catch first one, go down bottom turn and do the sickest cutback of my life, full on face ****ed/carved the face of it, sent **** tons of spray and was super fluid, my buddy out the back saw it and told me how the center back fin and the right fin were completly out of the wave and the left fin was in. Dayum I was ****ing stoked for once, caught a **** ton more waves absolutely ****ing the face of the wave up. Anyway well I guess thats that, Im getting back into surfing all ready lol, I knew I couldn't quit. Too bad though that I have a superbad neck tanline.
Why would you quit surfing? Or anything for that matter? Time and place for everything. Keep an open mind young padawan.
Longest goobye ever. See have lame the hello goodbye thread crap is. Just a reason for unnecessary chatter.
There are plenty of treadz of unnecessary chatter on here. At times, a minimum of relevant chatter. Seems like a good week last week here though with surf-related content. As for the gratuitous "goodbye" tread, c'mon. Didn't anyone see that coming? A goodbye tread is a cry for help and plea for attention, nothing more. Cats that have truly resigned themselves of the forum are gone before anyone knows it. They don't look back. Wasn't the OP the most infamous persona non grata in the history of SI? Kinda odd how much legitimate response he/she/it got here on the tread despite that. It's almost like you cats forgot who you were dealing with. Way too much decency in the responses lol As for hello treadz, buoy you haven't been here long enough to know why those rule. All current and future hello treadz are simply paying homage to the OG hello tread. What a kook tread dis is!!!!!!!!!
he could always try boogie boarding,,might be easier on his muscles...don't know why noone offered this advice