Folly was working. Chest was claimed by the reports but I think it was a little less. Actually a little bigger on Weds morning but much less organized. The offshore/sideshore was blowing and the air was cold but the water was warm. Really crowded at 6 AM too, we've all been deprived. The washout is still trying to find itself again in the post-renourishment awkward phase. There were a lot of closeout sections but good rides were had by all.
All that f~cking hype jinxed it. The forecast keeps getting worse. Some of you will never learn, getting all excited and going pee pee in your pants like bratty, entitled 4 year olds. Nature has the last laugh. Talking about what nature is going to do in days to come, like it's set in stone, is naive at best. A forecast is simply a prediction that is in no way absolute. If you see a cute doggy in a cage and stick your fingers in, then it bites you, are you going to repeatedly stick your fingers in after that until you have nubs? I think the answer for some of you is yes.
swell is still there, cleanup is coming, dont get ur panties twisted buddy, have faith, ask Wayne to prey, err, ah I mean pray for you
All I could do is watch the videos posted, since I was on my way to work by 6. I looked about stomach average, maybe a few chest sets. I am heading out after work, even if it dies off. I haven't been out in a few weeks, due to the house buying stuff and moving. I need some time in the water.
Hitting DP manana. An angel visited me in the night & said it will clean up & be fun from manana through Wednesday. Then she said that'll be $100....
Warning: Possible Thread Derailer We rarely get days with good offshore winds. Today it was steady 15+ knots and more or less offshore and I kept on getting hung up on the lip. I noticed this happening to a lot of folks out here. We can rock some crazy sideshore or onshore stuff all day. Any pointers? Other info: I was on the LB so I could keep the paddle speed up and was hoping the extra momentum would help.
so pessimistic, its fun to get amped for a swell. If you seriously believe in "jinxing" a swell by talking about it, well then dont read the forums. Half the time its a joke, mother nature doesnt look down and say no swell for them, they're overhyping it. I call bullsh*t. Keep surfing fun and loose, when people complain about talking about waves it really pisses me off.
I like riddles. Riddle me a surfboard with a narrow pointy nose for the offshore days, not wide-nosed boards.
When you use boards with wider noses on strong offshore days, it can cause you to get hung up in the lip. The wind has more surface to push against. I find narrow noses are better for really strong-offshore days. There are also a lot of times that you just have to time the drop-in later on strong offshore days and your placement before the wave gets to you is key. It will almost feel like you are too far inside but it's the perfect placement because the wind is just holding up the waves longer than usual.
Late takeoffs seem to fix the issue but it's dicey, too far in and you get blasted, too far out and you miss it
