Yes, as you say it's a fine line where you place yourself. I find that I almost never sit where I usually do on a strong offshore day because the wave is held up longer and eventually pitches closer to the beach. I could probably still sit there but I move in just a bit. Either way, you do have to paddle your ass off to get into the wave on the strong offshore days. When you get a little tired, you can just drop in under the lip on a late takeoff, get deep and hopefully finally see daylight but that method sometimes is punishing
I broke my epoxy LB on a bomb this a.m. at a secret spot in the 28401... either sheeit was real, or this board really sucked. Either way I had my extra board with me and went on to catch some screamers...
Bigger board =) But for real, that is usually the case. I learned that when I first moved here and Sandy was pumping. It "looked" epic, so I padded out on the HPSB. Got some pretty good waves, but even after getting huge speed and whi[[ing back around, you would feel the SB get caught like a sail, so as the tide started dropping and it wasn't as big, I had to move to the fish for 2 hours and it was the perfect call. Heavy enough to get into them and not really getting caught up in the wind... On a day like this morning, it was waist to chest, about 5-6 MPH offshore, so pretty light offshores, but it was just enough to make me leave the fish on the beach and take out the LB. With the offshore flow, I still had to take that extra 2 strokes to get in, staying WAY up on the baord and then trying to really be aware of the wind fighting against you. Made for some really clean lines, but a SB or even a fish just wasn't the call down here today. I saw a couple guys out on SB/FISH, but their waves were short lived and all the drops were late.... If I had more than 2 hours to surf, I probably would have started with at least a fish and then seen what happened. I just didn't have time to f around. Thats why I always get down there with two boards. There is a lot more offshore activity on the east coast because we are chasing these storms swells and the wind switches to clean up. It kills the waves, but leaves very short windows to get on it... But I would take dead wind, all day every day. There is a very fine line between good offshores and bad offshores. On the east coast, unless it's macking, those off shores can be pestering at best. But yeah, those well groomed "Green Man" days that you see coming, usually end up getting enjoyed on a bigger board until you get out of that chest+ region. Ohh well.
Iv noticed on days with strong offshores, like every one else said, move inside a bit. And it almost...almost....always turns out that the ones that look like they're going to break on me are the ones to go for because the waves gets stood up a bit. As far as jinxing, come on. Got to be more positive, realistic, but positive. The forecast for me has gotten better. Dosn't mean anything but it gives hope and positive vibes so I'm happy. It looks like the next 5 out of 6 days will be good. I'll be surprised if that holds up but either way I'll be surfing something, and that's exciting.
You're pissed off bro? I'll skip surfing tomorrow and come straight down there for a bench off. I'll f~ckin bench you into oblivion. You're reading deeply into the jinx thing, lol..........Don't. Excitedly talking about a forecasted swell, like it's obligated to pan out is naive and annoying. I've been at this game for a long time, and I lost track, well over 20 years ago, of all the predicted good swells/conditions that never came to fruition. It happens all the time, yet some of the conversations had on this forum (that you're kicking me out of) are indicative of forecasts being 100% reliable. Imo, that's quite a bit more insane than the jinx theory. If someone is a beginner and doesn't know any better, fine, I get that. If your seasoned, yet you think the forecast or nature owes you something, wtf is wrong with your brain? After the 3rd time you get skunked, it should be clear; expect nothing and what you get is cream. That way, you elude disappointment. That's a good concept to apply to life in general. This doesn't mean I don't want it to be good. I mean, who doesn't want it to be good 24/7? The only way I get excited about good waves is when they're in front of me or if they already happened. Experience taught me that. Btw, I'll surf whatever is surfable and like it. Realistic would better replace pessimistic for describing my opinion on jinxing the swell. I'm one of the guys out there trying to make sense out of lackluster swells and conditions, that many surfers pass on. I like the challenge. Tomorrow ? Who knows, I'm not going to pretend I do, but I'll be ready to party either way. It's a trip how concepts that I find simple are inconceivable to others, and vice versa. Glad you guys/gals got some surf in the south today. Love always, The Antijinx
same at cb...LB was the perfect call...i was getting into waves super early and making sections that most others weren't. albeit the shorties were getting barrelled alot more than me so it all evens out right?
Fun day today for the Cape Fear region, nice to have some solid sets pushing through for a post work session. Plus, offshore wind all day doesn't happen much around here.
Today was insane! One of the best days of surfing Iv ever had. Head high, I'm not one to exaggerate so I'm hesitant to say this but some were OH. Didn't expect much, wind was crazy all night. Pulled up no one there. Looked about chest high and a little sloppy. A few rideable ones though. So I wait around for a little till 3 of the normal DP crew showed up. Winds shifted off shore, paddle out to head high sets, 4 guys out. The comradere and stoke out there was off the charts. I feel like I just did a whole hell of alot of cocaine. Wow what a day
plenty of surf and a goon crowd and a shark scare and a decent shot at more of it all when i wake up tmrw morn so …so….so there.
