what board should I use

that's what ALL the bros are doing nowadays. tow-at bodysurf seshes at macking jaws are where it's at!

 

That's what I'm saying dude!

 

What's gonna happen when njshred gets a house arrest sentence and digs up his old SI login. I mean he won't be able to travel the world surfing 23 footers and banging hindus so all he'll have is us

 

Haa!! But for real, this is Kelly Slaters quiver...
http://surfbang.com/gear/boards/2013/02/kelly-slaters-quiksilver-pro-gold-coast-quiver.html (as posted before, seems to have been missed)

 

Yeah but Slater rips waves, Big $ T bagger rips butt holes in prison.

 

+1000 Rcarter.
Kelly slater may be 75lbs more than him, but he rips a couple million times better than anyone on this forum, so it kind of makes up for it slightly.

 

id take the 5'6" but cut the nose off about 17"

 

dear op






love, metard

 

lmao I just spit up my chocolate milk when I came across this post.

id ride the 5'6 at mavs,I heard the prototype has a prototype jet engine attached to the back fin.no paddles bra

 

bwahahahahaaa.......gitcarter, git some

wtf is in your cornflakes, SI HOFer, that is some graphic imagery headed towards BigAssDollarTeaBagger

 

Let me know when you're in the jaws area...i'll film that.

 

If you go to mavs, i'll send a buddy to film it.

 

My thinnest foam yet is 5'10 x 19.5" x 2.375". I aspire to get under 19 then to 18.5 because I know it would feel like a total skate, however the thousands of Carver hours have put a serious surplus of meat on my already oversized azz and legs for my waist size. Pushing high 180s this summer when it was low to mid 170s last year, pre-Carver. And I'm still lean but weight is weight when it comes to foam and float. Question for da good brahs: if I find myself in good position on no-paddle waves towards the inside, should I be able to get rides on thinner sticks? If so, I may start camping out on the inside more. All my money during Cristobal was made on the inside and until that swell I hadn't gone too far in most times. So unrelated buoys, I was just thinking out loud there. TMI TMI

The POTY14 voting will be perhaps the toughest category to select. We may have to have a handful of Dishonorable Mentions to give proper respek for all the forum gold this year.

My good brah, deets please?? Wifey go with or was it a buoys trip?

WaveJet, bro.

Sans hand planes. Those are like reef boots. Speaking of, can anyone dig up a tread from '08 bout hand planes?

That girl is so hot in a trashy way. Makes me glad I've got blondes lined up this weekend aside from this one Portugue. Love those broads to death, can't say no to their crazy.

Can we get the all-time roll call on bevvies/snacks shott out cranial (or other...) orifices onto monitors? It's great how it's always a different food/drink item each time.

 

Are you talkin width, or thickness? I like my boards typically of the shorter and fatter variety. Why not sit farther outside and paddle a lil bit? Makes the wave longer.
I havent ridden a board longer than 5'10" in a few years (obviously im not including my longboard, thats 9'7"). I tend to have my all purpose board in the 5'6-5'8 range.

This is almost done....its 5'6 x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2(ish)

 

Width bro. On a non-fish SB I don't ride any thicker than 2.5 and I prefer to be at 2.375. I feel that width prohibits my performance more than thickness though. My 5'8 and 5'10 fish are both reasonable width and I wouldn't like it otherwise. As for outside vs in I'm usually as far out as I can get so I can minimize being caught inside on cleanups, seeing exactly what I want to paddle into rather than it being forced on me, and finding the best rides you mention. But I'm gonna have to start going inside since we get finicky waves here bro, you know that. I'd rather get takeoffs every time then fall off the back of most. Plus, there's usually more traffic out back at breaks I frequent and far more voluminous boards that I'm on.

I'm starting to think that placement on the X-Y grid (on the peak vs shoulder and inside vs out) is 90% of catching a wave and paddling 10%, at least with a SB. My paddle is on point by now, I can tell that as I'm getting through waves out back on bigger days and when I'm fighting drift, etc. You see great surfers most of the time get in waves in 3 paddles or less. The best thing I did during Cristobal was get on that damn peak. Honestly, while I've always paddled into bombs I think I've been taking the easy way out shoulder-hopping more than not and hoping the wave is walled up enough to project me as I'm avoiding the possibility of getting shott OTF if I don't make the fast takeoff closer to the peak on bigger waves.

I'm seeing now that you want to be on or just inside the peak every damn time (aside from behind it on certain barrells) not just for priority but because you'll get the most frequent, longest, and best rides doing so. When Spicoli pushes the Carver up a steep, long hill to rip that pave like a boss the whole way down, it's the whole way down from the top not just halfway up. Better speed, longer carves, more carves, more stoke. Same for on a wave. I've also realized that botching takeoffs is wicked fun as long as you're not falling on rocks, reef, or shallow sand. That's why I've always liked being out back - deeper water. You're not gonna get super stoked chasing bunny hills so get on that peak and in the biggest waves reasonable to your ability and survival skills. I like the fast to feet quick takeoff anyway. Wish that were available more on the EC but we see a lot of mush.

As for chasing that long ride, I feel like I've been putting all my stock into that first maneuver on the face and making it as powerful as I can. Maybe I'm cheating myself out of good wave face time (which is priceless) and maneuvers like cutbacks where I get back in the power pocket to prolong the ride and throw multiple maneuvers on the same wave. But maximizing my power on that first maneuver is definitely helping me develop instant speed so I can even get that first maneuver, which in turn is either helping me get a few quick and forceful pumps right after takeoff like pa pa pa so I can drop down, go back vert to wapahh, or it's forcing me to get good at stabilizing steeper, earlier drops into badass bottom turns which many say is the most critical move in surfing.

Sic rig you got there leetymike, single fin or thrusted?

 

I'm throwing a lot out there right now stream of consciousness but what do you bros think? Should I keep going for max power and explosiveness on that first maneuver or should I dial it back with more control not throwing in the kitchen sink right away and try for multiple maneuvers and longer rides. As it exists, I'm not even typically re-entering the wave on a second drop after hitting the lip the first time because I go all out on that lip trying to throw a bucket, go for maximal rotation, or some bastardized form of a small air. Is there a right and wrong progression here for maneuvers such as with skating they advise go Ollie to back/front 180 to shove it to kick flip or can I just pick and choose here on surf maneuvers? What's great is that the Carver is my complete breeding ground for my next stage of surfing at all times.

 

lol just realized I hijacked a troll tread and made it into a technical discussion, for anyone that wants to read 1000 words and participate. Kinda the opposite of tread hijacking. I got this baby back on the rails rather than derailing it.

If you're inclined to sort through my disorganized stoke here your thoughts are much appreciated. There have been some great treads lately like verbalization of the pumping action, etc. For all the braddahs that don't subscribe to the "just go and surf" mindset, jump in and give your input.

 

The shortboard its replacing is 5'7 x 19 x 2 3/16", so i go thin sometimes too. Its a quad.

In regards to the Spicolli's shred practices..thats the great thing about surfing broski, you can do it however you want. I tend to take my time, let the wave develop, get as much speed as i can, then finish with a bang. I'm no shredder.
The pop up is crucial, the faster the better. Less wasted motion. Smooth, efficient.

Keep up the stoke mang. I dont think you need to think about it so much though. I'm not sayin dont think about surfing, just put less mental power into it. More like free association, just let it happen and flow. Dont think about it.

 

I got you bro, good post. I don't think much bout what I'm gonna do right before the ride or anything. Waves dictate to you what you can do with them since they're all different from one to the next. The analysis is occurring now when I'm stoked out of the water and when I'm on my Carver. You're catching me at an incredibly stoked time and I therefore get analytical but it's all enjoyment so realize this is my expression of stoke. Others of you may pump a fist or bang a Hindu. My mental and physical practice arena is out of the water believe it or not, entirely.

In the water, I'm even getting to the point where I forget parts of sessions. Both because I'm now getting that many rides and also because I'm letting is associate freely (great term!). I really enjoyed Cristobal and it was all free association. What's awesome is that the visual/mental processing speed of even 8-9ft cane swell waves coming in at 13-14s have even slowed down where I absorb a ton during the ride and can make decisions and conscious reactions. Like setting up my wapahhh, I'm watching just how compressed I am and just how much I pre-coil to set the nose/tail up for max rotation. It's working bros, I'm having my best sessions ever and loving it. This is how Spicoli really gets stoked - by marked progress shown by replaying great rides in my mind, or in pics that I'm fortunate to get, or better yet video that I haven't got in a dog's age. I'm stoked and can't wait to get in my next rippable wave so I can go pa pa pa wapahhh

Dope dims bro. Quad must be fast! You like that round tail? That must be loose.

 

zach, I'm expecting at least a tech response from you bro!