We are coming up on 6-7 weeks solid of flat up here, with lil nugs here and there. What I've done in the meantime: - Post way too much on SI - Fail at attempting to post less on SI (it's working the last few days) - Learn a hell of a lot more from you vets and surf Yodas - Laugh a hell of a lot more from you comic geniuses and otherwise great guys - Bring tea and crumpets out each morning to my #1 fan that is parked in the "ice cream truck" outside my crib non-stop - Double my daily surf watching total now to 4-5 hours - Being able to see more each minute as to what the pros and studs in the surf vids are actually doing, aiming to do, how they're doing it and why they're doing it; basically gaining enough knowledge on my own to finally use surf vids as not only entertainment but an immense learning tool - Keep the diet on point and eat so much seafood that my veins may hold more mercury than a thermometer - Still go out any day, every day, while there are waves or no waves and paddle, paddle, paddle - Get excited about disorganized chop at the home break and paddle through it like they was moguls while I fight to find the narrowest peak possible in the smallest takeoff zone possible and find some damn rides no matter what - Elevate the tan GBH status (golden-bronzed hero) - Drive up to 3.5 hours each way to find any and all decent swell on days I've scouted to successfully be had at any breaks within reach - Met up with a few SI brahs for some decent sessions (1st class dudes, gentlemen/scholars) - Ride the Carver board daily for 1-4 hours at night in parking lots and in rush-hour suburban areas (this damn thing is making all the difference in everything) - Effort to be able to carve uphill from a standstill and actually accelerate to the point where I can climb slight to moderate hills then ride down them and then climb back up without a single kick for power - Get purely stoked when thinking how my muscle memory is exponentially on an upward grade each day as the result of the Carver so that in my next "real" wave {i.e. 3-6ft glass peeling steadily either R or L) I may very well look like a very early stage Erock or Zach (or many others of you) - Spend some great family time and teaching my brother and some friends some basics in the local 8-10 inches (NOT FEET!!) - Plan an upcoming trip to a surf destination near the equator - Train like hell in all the ways above and others so I make the most of this trip - Research as much as I possibly can about the breaks there and how to both stay safe and use them to maximize my progress - De-wax the quiver then wax it up again while scoping some wahines in the sand - Further improve my ding repair skills, knowledge, and apply them through regular quiver maintenance - Let the primordial beast within run and roam free at all times (in all ways, not just pertinent to surfing) - Pass on doing many, many, many other tasks and activities related to typical life so that I may do all the above and below - Watch, feel, and enjoy my stoke raise every damn day more than the day prior - Get excited, confident, and even more stoked when thinking about all I've efforted for and improved on in what will be 6 months of surfing a week from now - Feel lucky and thankful that I've had the resources I've had in you SI brahs and a couple others I've met around here to ride with and learn from - Become increasingly aware of the ocean through academic learning and how it relates to surfing as well as a source of life and innate enjoyment for all in the world not just surfers - Get involved in municipal committees on the board level to contribute to the preservation, proliferation, and proper use of open outdoor spaces in the local community - Take my best shott at improving my overall surf game and stoke each day in every way - Stay in touch with several brahs on here outside of driving MEET ME AT MY BREAK distance and still making sure they're doing well - Buying two books of matty's excellent book (like PB&J asked me to) and excitedly awaiting their arrival! (one goes to me, one to my brother who is also the grandson of two WW2 vets and proud of it) - Getting closer with family during the trials of enduring an ailing grandmother - Feeling fortunate for my privilege and opportunity to rejuve myself in so many ways of my life in the last 8 months since it was so much needed for so long before - Realize more every day that there is zero chance of me ever not living right on the water, even if that entails fashioning a makeshift/weatherproof shelter from shark skin and elephant tusks then bartering something of value (not my soul) to procure a Nicaraguan hammock - Learning more patience each day with who I view as the SI haters and working to realize that they're just like me in my love for all of this and even if they get aggro from things I say because I differ from them in other ways that just about everyone on here is worth allying with - Getting a bit aggro about having to wait so long for the next in trevolution's counterculture career of LE and Judicial System defiance - Crafting the piece of driftwood that was 100% exactly what I'd been search for (but serendipitously washed up on my shore two nights ago) into a wallbase to go throughout my shack and maybe salvaging some of the branch remnants as notches to hang sticks up against - Making other various preparations and changes for the next few chapters of the saga that is my life end up a success - Getting excited for next Saturday's Waves Not Graves surf-a-palooza and readying my script - Hoping all of you brahs are having as much or more fun than I through this lull of flatter times - And last, but by no means least, staying entirely in the moment even though the ocean is tired at the moment! Stoke on brahs! Thanks for having me
- Fail at attempting to post less on SI (it's working the last few days) Just start writing your own best selling novel and get ALL the words out of your system...
Brahs, what can I say, it's been a long spell! I'll walk the plank and punt it! Probably will paddle back in though. All for now brads. Carry on!
I'm kidding. Been running more. I work more around the house, run errands, spend time with wife (don't want her taking a hammer to my board), help my two older kids move into college living quarters. Making drive to U of Alabama in Huntsville later this week for daughter's grad school.
Dude, you really need a new hobby. I'm tripling up on that holy ****balls! To the OP, stocks by day, banging hot models, downing 4Loco's and driving my kickass whip, that's the fastest one on my block. Oh, and Fist pumps. Booyaaa!
I utilize my flat days pretty much the same as others; but normally still get wet by teaching my kids and others how to surf. Alot of pushing boards due to the lack of swell; but still get a stoke to see them standup.
I do all the other things I don't have time for when I'm surfing. Mainly visit family / friends and go fishing.
Chuck Norris doesn't wait for waves. When he sees anything less than 8-10' critical wave heights, he raises his iron fist and Mother Nature quickly obliges with a supplement of expedited ground swell and some mild offshores.
Surf videos...I have been watching some classic surf videos that my cousin lent me. He's older than me and hung on to his VHS. This one has been my favorite so far, "Blazing Boards": http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUGEzbAU8Xw
gripe and complain on the SI forums. I have been welding and doing alot of fab work lately to keep myself busy in the little free time i have anymore.