what happened to the idea of surfer as counterculturalist..as rebel? outsider?

b/c jersey women are amazing!







(sorry, my wife was sitting right next to me...still true, though)

 

also, i recently started reading an unconventional surf history book that was written by *actual* historians (who happen to surf), as opposed to some of the other books on surf history which really weren't. i'm not very far into it, but it seems to me that the impact of the missionaries on the decline of surfing is way, way overstated & it had more to do w/ the drastic & rapid decline of the hawaiian people rather than the oppression of calvinist missionaries (which failed to convert any sizable portion of the population). if the population of a group drops precipitously, then the # of participants in a given activity is going to drop proportionally. in 100 years, the population of native hawaiian islanders went from close to 1 million to fewer than 50,000, largely due to disease. that's going to create a whole lot of empty line ups.
the idea that the missionaries opposed & suppressed surfing was blown up & dramatized by those looking to create an image of surfers as rebels & outsiders...

 

njsurfer42, that is quite plausible. 20x less braddahs can tend to result in less charging. Good history lesson and parallel lesson in logic.

 

Well i dont think the "calvanist missionaries" route was the plan to make a rebel image. It sounds way mo betta to say they outlawed surfing than to say they didnt need to outlaw it cause most the islanders died from the diseases introduced.

 

sometimes as little as 2 or 3 hours a day, french (and other euro) peasants didnt do sh!t for about 4 months (other than gather some firewood and drink) a year waiting for weather to break

and skewel was manufactured to brainwash the young people into jumping at a bell and begin on time for pointless crap